Mystery Ignition Problem


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By Florida_Phil - 8 Years Ago
I took my '55 Bird out for a ride last weekend.   All went great for about 10 miles.  Out of nowhere the motor started missing and wouldn't idle.  It would rev fine for a few times then die.  At first I thought I had a fuel problem.  Popping off the air cleaner I could see I had plenty of fuel out of the accelerator pump. The motor was only running about 180 degrees.  I took the ignition cap off to see if I had  a bad rotor or a wire off.  All looked good.  I called AAA for a tow home.  While I was waiting, I messed around with the points and it started running great again. It ran great for about 2 blocks and quit again.  The first morning back in my garage the engine still missed.  I installed new points and condenser and it started immediately and has been running great since.  It made me nervous that I didn't find anything obviously wrong.

My engine is a stock '55 292 with a rebuilt '57 distributor from Macs Auto Parts.  Can a new condenser and points fail in less than 100 miles?
By Dobie - 8 Years Ago
The short answer is yes, new points and condenser can fail in a short period. Most of 'em are offshore (read that Chinese) and are not made to the standards the originals were. I suggest switching to electronic ignition and just keeping a set of points and a condenser in the glovebox just in case. Two good electronic conversions are Pertronix and Accel. Accel parts are available at any auto parts store that carries the brand.
By Gene Purser - 8 Years Ago
I bought a rebuilt '59 distributor from Autozone. The condenser failed in less than 50 miles. Suddenly started popping and missing. I barely make it home and it died in the driveway. I put a condenser from another distributor in and it ran fine until I recently converted to Pertronix with the points and condenser and a screwdriver in the trunk. 
By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
Been hearing this a lot recently. Seems to be Offshore made Condensers-not the Points.that fail.
By DryLakesRacer - 8 Years Ago
The condenser in mine failed twice and after the first one I purchased a Pertronix ll along with their coil. Being wiser I installed their system including continuing to use my ballast resister and have never had a failure.
Without a doubt it was the condenser, if it's possible for you to find a few NOS ones from BluePoint or even Standard it woul be worth a shot to keep with your points. Back over 50 years ago I learned from an old mechanic that if there was no growth from one side to the other side on the points, file and polish them and don't change the condenser. I follow this on my 39 Indian.
By Lord Gaga - 8 Years Ago
Replace the "condenser" with a .22uf 1000v FILM CAPACITOR from an electronics dealer.
No more problems!
By petew - 8 Years Ago
Florida_Phil (9/7/2017)
I took my '55 Bird out for a ride last weekend.   All went great for about 10 miles.  Out of nowhere the motor started missing and wouldn't idle.  It would rev fine for a few times then die.  At first I thought I had a fuel problem.  Popping off the air cleaner I could see I had plenty of fuel out of the accelerator pump. The motor was only running about 180 degrees.  I took the ignition cap off to see if I had  a bad rotor or a wire off.  All looked good.  I called AAA for a tow home.  While I was waiting, I messed around with the points and it started running great again. It ran great for about 2 blocks and quit again.  The first morning back in my garage the engine still missed.  I installed new points and condenser and it started immediately and has been running great since.  It made me nervous that I didn't find anything obviously wrong.

My engine is a stock '55 292 with a rebuilt '57 distributor from Macs Auto Parts.  Can a new condenser and points fail in less than 100 miles?

Same thing has happened to me , the condensers available today are junk . 
Is your car an automatic or 3 speed manual  with overdrive ? The reason I ask is the overdrive cars have a ignition interrupt ( floor switch) that could cause similar problems .

By Florida_Phil - 8 Years Ago
My car is a manual transmission with overdrive.   No more problems since I changed points and condenser, but I haven't driven it much. I drive the car with the overdrive handle pulled out.   I don't care for the free wheeling in OD when you are coasting in gear.  I have always converted my cars using a Pertronix module.  This is the first points car I have had in years.  Good advice.  Thanks!
By Gene Purser - 8 Years Ago
Phil, does your car freewheel at speeds above 28 mph with the OD handle pushed in toward the dash? 
By Florida_Phil - 8 Years Ago
I haven't tried that yet.   I have never owned an O/D car before.  When I first drove the car it seemed like the rear gear was extra high and it didn't drag the car down when I let off in gear causing me to use the brakes more than I like.  Eventually I realized the O/D was working, so I pulled the handle.  I just installed a tachometer so I can tell what's happening with the RPM. 

I like to drive the car with the transmission.  It seems to me the OD would only be useful on the highway.  I may never use it, but I sure don't want the OD to give me ignition problems. I'm thinking about manually disabling it for now.  I don't want to remove anything in case someone wants to connect it up in the future.
By Gene Purser - 8 Years Ago
My point in asking is trying to determine IF your overdrive is working. If it freewheels and doesn't have engine braking above 28 mph the overdrove isn't engaging. With normal gearing your engine should turn approximately 3000 RPM at 60 when not in overdrive. If the overdrive engages, the RPM should be closer to 2000 at 60 mph and you will have engine braking.
By Florida_Phil - 8 Years Ago
Now that I have a tach, I can see what's going on.   I check it out.  Thanks!
By 30 coupe - 8 Years Ago
I actually prefer leaving the o/d handle pushed in. I find that driving around town I can usually leave it in 2nd in o/d and do a lot less shifting. my car is a '51 Merc. with the stock 255 flathead V8. ( my other car has a Y-Block )  I find that I have engine braking, until it gets below 28-30mph. my car does have a 4:27 rear ratio, and that may be why I can drive around in 2nd o/d.------Jim