The Wiring is correct as You explained. The Large 10 Gauge Wire is connected between the "B" Terminal on Alt and Solenoid. I get Battery Voltage at the "B" terminal on the Alternator which means the Wire is spliced together  properly. I ran a small Wire from "A" Terminal on Reg. to the Battery side of Solenoid.

  

Greetings: Being an electormechanical reg. in itself is not a problem. Is the regulator good? That could be the problem. Does the idiot light illuminate when the ignition key is in the on position? 


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Light is on with Key on. I have no way of knowing if the Reg is good or not. Its new but!!! The only way to know if the Alt is good is to take it off and test at Parts Store. Trying to avoid that as I spent quite a bit of Time modifying the Gen. Bracket to work with Alt. Take it apart to get Alt off. 

  

Jeff, if You are sure that wiring Connections are correct as you  listed in previous Post I think I may have to take it off and get it tested at the Parts Store. It is wired as you listed so I don't think Wiring is the Problem. This AC Delco Premium Alt was assembled where else but China so it may be the problem. What do You think?

  

OK, light on means there is power to the "I" term., through the reg., out the "F" term. and through the alt. rotating field. At least that's the way it should be.  The voltage should be perhaps +/-  batt. voltage, minus the drop across the bulb and across/through the field to ground.  The voltage at the "I" term. and at the "F" term at this point, (key on engine stopped) should be close to  the same. Something s little less than the batt. voltage.  If all this is so, then the alt has a field and should begin building voltage at the "B" terminal - it's output.Since it's a mechanical reg., reattach the stator wire.  I wish you lived close to me as I would put some or all of this on my test stand and see whats going on and check all the rearranged wiring on the vehicle.  Often, another pair of eyes helps. Perhaps double and triple check all wiring.  If all else fails, maybe we could exchange info through a PM on this site?  


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I have 12.4  Battery Voltage. 12.4 at "A" Terminal on Regulator. With Key on not running I have very minimal Voltage .31 between F and - on Battery and the same between "I" and - on Battery. The Light is on. With Light off 0 at both Terminals. You can email Me at oldcarmark@hotmail.com if You want to go offline at this Point. Really appreciate your help.I had the cover off the Reg. to check voltage. The "Points" between the "I" Terminal and the "A" Terminal were open as well as the "F" Points. When I start the Car the "I" Points were still open but the "F" appeared to close. Does this help at all?

  

I just did a Test I read online. Disconnected plug from Regulator. Started Car. Jumped the Connection between "A" and "F" and it started charging. Apparently this indicates a Regulator Problem (Defective). Do You concur with that?

  

Greetings:  I was hesitating to go to the full field test until a few more things were checked. Since you did this, it looks like the alternator is probably good. Now, you stated there was .3 volts on the "I" terminal to ground with the light on.  In some cases, it takes more than just the current through the bulb to kick start an alternator. Often, for a mechanical reg. a 15ohm resistor is shunted across the bulb. You may try simply shorting the bulb, that is, place a shunt across the bulb.  This should not harm anything.  The field relay is the one with an upper and lower contact. With no power on the reg., the spring holds the armature against the upper contact which is the full field position and as voltage builds up and a bit over 13.8 volts, it should begin to vibrate thus limiting the current to the field thus regulating the voltage. The other relay it the field relay and will pick up as voltage builds in the stator.  So at this point, try a shunt across the bulb.



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Fixed it. Bought another Electronic  Regulator and solved the Problem. Light is off and charging at around 13.5-14.5 .All that  aggravation caused by a defective Regulator. Thanks for all the Help. I still needed your input to get the Wiring done correctly.

  

Nice work, perfect. Sounds like you have the wiring correct already but the wiring may need to be straightened out with absolute rock solid connections.  I might add, there are numerous alternator harnesses available from sources as NPD for the 65 and up mustangs that will match very close to what we need and look factory correct. Now that you know what all the connection requirements are, you should be able to select one that will work for you with little modification. That's what I did to finalize the alternator install in my 64 F100. And whats more, you will have a better, more stable system with this fantastic 3 wire alternator.  Now, not to steer this thread, I may seek your advice regarding posting pics on this site.  Glad to hear the thing makes electricity.............JEFF


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