pm me if you have more questions I will be glade to help.
Roger
Idaho Springs Colorado

Yeah I've tried flashing the generator a few times, thing is the generator is outputting and the GEN light is OFF when the car is running.

So here's something new. Went out to work on the car again this morning, I went ahead and put the other regulator box back on hoping it'd get that GEN light problem to go away (it didn't.) and I fixed the cut-off circuit so that now it closes when the engine is on. Anyway, taking a reading with the engine cold the voltage was right where it should be. Started at about 6.45 volts and climbed to 7.02 - 7.04 volts and stopped. Putting on the gas got it up to probably around 7.09 volts. (this was the same reading with the regulator cover on or off) This is just idling mind you, at idle the generator was producing power and climbing the battery voltage to 7.02 volts. Though maybe my idle is just fast, 1500 RPMS isn't very much acceleration is it.

Thing is, when the car was hot it was back to where it was yesterday producing about 6.48 volts at idle and climbing to about 6.97 volts with some gas given. I guess it makes sense as parts got hot and expanded it'd change the spring tension,  I guess my question is is this normal and okay where it's set?

Half-dude,

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

.The "normal" range for a 12 volt car is 13.7 to 14.3 so it looks like your six volt system is okay


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Half-Dude,

Sorry 'bout the two previous "fat fingers", folks.

The charging voltage is supposed to go down with temperature increase; "temperature compensation", built into the voltage regulator via "bi-metal" contact springs (the flat, usually blue-colored ones on top), is addressed in the shop manuals.  I wish that I could "get-into" it here; but, dead-slow dial-up internet won't allow.  This keeps you from overcharging and "boiling-out" (destroying) the battery at higher engine compartment temperatures

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

Wow really?!

Jeeze I wish I knew this at the time, it's hard playing catch-up as you go, that's a relief though. You're sure that feature is built into modern day constructed mechanical regulator boxes too? I'll look that up. I only ask because I think I know what you mean, on the original regulator I took a picture of below, it's those triangular pieces on top right? The modern ones don't have those or at least don't have them looking the same.
I need to find a place that will show me how to make sure the amp switch is adjusted right, I sure don't want to blow any wires/bulbs/fuses/ect.




I guess  the only problem left now is finding out how to make my GEN light turn off. Like I said, it's only on when the key is OFF. I tried looking elsewhere but all the other forums either have people that are stumped and/or use alternators and say the alternator is bad. My generator is obviously working.

What terminal of the regulator do you have the wire going to the gen light connected to? It should go to the "A" armature terminal on the regulator.

There are two connectors going to BAT one with leads going to it. One with two yellow wires, and one with a yellow and black stripe wire. The FIELD connector gas one small black wire lead going to it. The ARM has one lead with one big yellow wire.

Move the yellow wire with black stripe from the Bat terminal and add it to the "A" armature terminal on regulator.

You absolutely sure? I don't want to burn anything out.