ding a
miker, so right! they have a reason for bending and wise advice.


  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

For what it's worth I have seen more than once where too long a bolt was used in the last hole back by the intake manifold driver's side that holds the clip for the temp sensor wire. The threaded hole in the head is open all the way through to the pushrod area right in line with the pushrod allowing the bolt to hit the pushrod and bend it.

John Mummert wrote an article titled Random Thoughts, re pushrod compatibility in Y-Block magazine issue #137, Nov/Dec 2016, He included several other trouble areas re transmisson conversions,( T-5 transmissions have snouts that must be trimmed back to fit Y-Blk cranks & 57-58 distributors that have to much centrifical advance built in) etc. Briefly, Ford engineers made the pushrod balls .360" & the cup .375" for about 0.015" clearance for oiling. The aftermarket made the ball .375" & the cup .390.  Therefore, if a performance screw is used with a Ford .375" cup, there is insufficient clearance for oiling resulting in high wear & likely failure. Further there are some defective alloy aftermarket adjusting screws out there that fail in short order.. That issue is well worth obtaining for that article alone..        


Paul

Don't make it so hard, just use a sharpie to mark the socket of the push rod, rub it on the rocker arm ball and you will see the highs and lows.  If there is any.

Dyken was my after thought. Maybe just paint would work?

A rocker arm adjuster screw - the poor mans radius gauge.  If you have a Y-Block, then you have the tool.

I think I've seen spray graphite used as a way to observe the contact pattern.  Maybe Dyken or a really thick grease would also work.


Lawrenceville, GA

I think it would require a radius gauge to check. If I remember correctly on the FE problem the radius of the bottom of the cup was smaller then the ball on the adjuster and that caused the cup to spit.

How do you tell the good ones from the bad ones?

Thanks Charlie that good to know. I had a similar problem with some FE push rods years ago.

There was a batch of pushrods a long time ago that had cups which were too small.  If that was not realized, and they were installed then they would break or accelerate wear.  Always check before assembly.


Lawrenceville, GA