As a follow-up, it was the rear main seal. Engine shop backed their warranty and with a little orchestration, I got it to a shop and they changed it out with no charge to me. Enjoying driving this thing now finally

Thanks!

It has a PCV system with a Mummert baffled valley pan. I used a PCV valve from a 289 Mustang and runs from the base of a Carter AFB through the original Ford Y-Block PCV pipe back to the valve. I did unplug it, check to make sure that the vacuum was pulling the correct way and also did it while running just to be sure. It did not affect anything.

Thanks!

- WOT

Great video, the way it is leaking on both sides it almost looks like the side seals were installed wrong? At the rate it is leaking could be the main seal is backwards or used a 312 seal? Strange it would take that long to leak..  Being a 64 it should have a PCV system, and if working it shouldn't build crank case pressure.  Good luck, it will be interesting to see what you find.

Oh yes already thought of the scope. Might be fun just to have one anyway. I can see the cam plug with a light shining in there but it is real, real hard to tell if that's exactly where it is leaking from. I am 99% sure it isn't coming from the oil galley plugs as it is leaking off both sides of the crank so to me seems like it would be coming from over the top of the crank or from behind the seal. Cam plug would be a much easier fix for sure. The oil galley plugs seems to me would leak straight down on the drivers side and I saw no leaks from them as this was going on. Might fire it up again tonight and really pay attention to that cam plug.

Thanks for the replies MoonShadow and oldcarmark!

- WOT

I don't think so. It would involve pulling the transmission or the engine. Do you know any mechanics that have a bore scope or similar equipment? You could snake that up between the transmission plate and the block. With light you should at least be able to see if that much oil is coming from above or below the crank seal. A quick search of EBAY presented a list of endoscopes that are surprisingly low priced. Some for laptop, some for Cel phone and some work with either. I think I'll get one!



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

[quote]MoonShadow (7/20/2017)

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Thats a good Suggestion too. Not sure how to determine if that's where its leaking. Can You see the Cam Plug from underneath with the Inspection Cover off?

  

How about the rear cam plug? May be taking that long to get enough oil in the gallery before it starts running out? Can be done in vehicle by pulling the transmission.

The cam plug is now installed. Again, it should be no deeper than flush with the shoulder of the opening. While at the back of the block, also install new threaded plugs into the oil galleries. Use thread sealer on all galley plugs.

 
 

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Right on. I've read it before. Might take a stab at it myself even though I shouldn't have to.

Thanks!!!

- WOT

The Motor does not need to come out. Can be done preferably on a Hoist. I did mine on Garage Floor. The Engine builder can do it in the Vehicle. Drain the Oil. Drop the Pan. Loosen off the main Caps so Crank drops a little bit to relieve Pressure on the Seal. Take off Seal Retainer and pull top half out of Block. If You go to Ted's Site "Eaton Balancing" using the "Links" above there are Instructions on replacing Seal the correct Way.  

  

Thanks man that's what I figured. It might be easier for me to swap out the seal than try and pull the thing out to have them do it. Will discuss options later with them today. Wow look! I already had a handle HA HA didn't realize I had already signed up for this awesome site

- WOT