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By Worldoftone - 8 Years Ago
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Been a lurker here for a while, hello!
From a cold start the engine does not leak. At about the six-minute mark once the truck gets up to temp about 180-degrees, it starts pouring oil out of looks like the rear main seal. Why would it do that? Any ideas? Fresh build. Engine runs well so far other than that.
Video in the link below. Skip to the six-minute mark. Engine does not seem to be pressurizing or anything else like that to cause this. I have no clue. It will automatically leak on a hot restart.
Leave it overnight and SSDD on a cold restart.
Thanks for any ideas. Engine build shop will warranty the work but I want to try and make sure it isn't something simple on my end. Does not appear to be cam cap or the 3/8ths threaded inserts from the oil pump.
Perhaps the main seal is bad by why not just start leaking when cold? It's a new neoprene seal but I know sometimes things can fail. Interesting to say the least. Perhaps someone here has seen this before?
Thanks!
- WOT
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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I would say the rear main Seal is either Defective or incorrectly installed. Mine leaked from the day I installed it but not nearly as bad as yours. I just redid it last Week and so far it seems good. Drop the Pan and undo the Seal retainer. Maybe the Lip of the Seal is facing the back of the Engine instead of Front if its Neoprene? When I did mine last Week I checked everything as I took it apart and there was nothing wrong with the Seal or the Installation. Still leaked. One thing I did differently this Time was not completely tighten the Seal retainer before pushing Sealant in with the side Seals. Leave a little room under the retainer for the Sealant to seep into before tightening the Retainer. That was not suggested in the Instructions when I first installed the "Best" Neoprene Seal. I don't think its anything you did or did not do. Take it back to the Shop that did the work.
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By Bruno64 - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks man that's what I figured. It might be easier for me to swap out the seal than try and pull the thing out to have them do it. Will discuss options later with them today. Wow look! I already had a handle HA HA didn't realize I had already signed up for this awesome site 
- WOT
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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The Motor does not need to come out. Can be done preferably on a Hoist. I did mine on Garage Floor. The Engine builder can do it in the Vehicle. Drain the Oil. Drop the Pan. Loosen off the main Caps so Crank drops a little bit to relieve Pressure on the Seal. Take off Seal Retainer and pull top half out of Block. If You go to Ted's Site "Eaton Balancing" using the "Links" above there are Instructions on replacing Seal the correct Way.
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By Bruno64 - 8 Years Ago
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Right on. I've read it before. Might take a stab at it myself even though I shouldn't have to.
Thanks!!!
- WOT
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By MoonShadow - 8 Years Ago
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How about the rear cam plug? May be taking that long to get enough oil in the gallery before it starts running out? Can be done in vehicle by pulling the transmission.
The cam plug is now installed. Again, it should be no deeper than flush with the shoulder of the opening. While at the back  of the block, also install new threaded plugs into the oil galleries. Use thread sealer on all galley plugs.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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[quote]MoonShadow (7/20/2017)
How about the rear cam plug? May be taking that long to get enough oil in the gallery before it starts running out? Can be done in vehicle by pulling the transmission. The cam plug is now installed. Again, it should be no deeper than flush with the shoulder of the opening. While at the back of the block, also install new threaded plugs into the oil galleries. Use thread sealer on all galley plugs.
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By MoonShadow - 8 Years Ago
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I don't think so. It would involve pulling the transmission or the engine. Do you know any mechanics that have a bore scope or similar equipment? You could snake that up between the transmission plate and the block. With light you should at least be able to see if that much oil is coming from above or below the crank seal. A quick search of EBAY presented a list of endoscopes that are surprisingly low priced. Some for laptop, some for Cel phone and some work with either. I think I'll get one!
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By Bruno64 - 8 Years Ago
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Oh yes already thought of the scope. Might be fun just to have one anyway. I can see the cam plug with a light shining in there but it is real, real hard to tell if that's exactly where it is leaking from. I am 99% sure it isn't coming from the oil galley plugs as it is leaking off both sides of the crank so to me seems like it would be coming from over the top of the crank or from behind the seal. Cam plug would be a much easier fix for sure. The oil galley plugs seems to me would leak straight down on the drivers side and I saw no leaks from them as this was going on. Might fire it up again tonight and really pay attention to that cam plug.
Thanks for the replies MoonShadow and oldcarmark!
- WOT
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By 57RancheroJim - 8 Years Ago
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Great video, the way it is leaking on both sides it almost looks like the side seals were installed wrong? At the rate it is leaking could be the main seal is backwards or used a 312 seal? Strange it would take that long to leak.. Being a 64 it should have a PCV system, and if working it shouldn't build crank case pressure. Good luck, it will be interesting to see what you find.
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By Bruno64 - 8 Years Ago
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It has a PCV system with a Mummert baffled valley pan. I used a PCV valve from a 289 Mustang and runs from the base of a Carter AFB through the original Ford Y-Block PCV pipe back to the valve. I did unplug it, check to make sure that the vacuum was pulling the correct way and also did it while running just to be sure. It did not affect anything.
Thanks!
- WOT
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By Worldoftone - 8 Years Ago
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As a follow-up, it was the rear main seal. Engine shop backed their warranty and with a little orchestration, I got it to a shop and they changed it out with no charge to me. Enjoying driving this thing now finally
Thanks!
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