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Fuel pressure with factory E dual quads

Posted By slumlord444 7 Years Ago
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slumlord444
Posted 7 Years Ago
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My red Holly electric pump died. It was factory pre set at 7 PSI. I am replacing it with a Blue Holly pump that will go up to 14 PSI and comes with a pressure regulator. The Ford shop manual shows a maximum of 5 PSI. I am thinking I should set it at 7 PSI because I had no problems with the 7 PSI pump. I am assuming the teapot holly won't tolerate anything higher. The carbs were professionaly restored several years ago before I installed them. Suggestions or comments?
miker
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I don't have any experience with the teapots, just '94's. But in my experience most electric pumps don't make the full rated pressure. So unless you know it made 7 lbs, I'd be suspect. I'd put a gauge on the new one and start at 5lbs. If the car runs the same (assuming the pressure will affect the float levels and therefore the mixture), I'd leave it. The new pump will have the capacity to maintain at least the 5lbs at WOT. If it seems to go lean, I'd up the pressure. But you're going to need a good guage to check the pressure at least at idle. I'm not a fan of leaving fuel pressure gauges in place. I'm always afraid of failure and a lot of raw fuel under the hood. I'd never run one in the cockpit unless it was electric.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
Talkwrench
Posted 7 Years Ago
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A blue will pump like a hose... For that style to last at all you should be running a return line.

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charliemccraney
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I tried two Holley red pumps.  They lasted about 1000 miles each on the street.  I switched to Carter and have had no problems since.
It seems like a short would develop in the Holleys.  They would start blowing the fuse.

They are all street pumps.  All  rated for about 7psi. At the carb, there is about 4.5psi with every one.



Lawrenceville, GA
slumlord444
Posted 7 Years Ago
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The blue pump comes set to 14 PSI. I'm not comfortable with that. Thinking 5 to 7 PSI. Still looking for a PSI recomendation for the teapots. I know 5 will work but thinking 7 would be better if the carbs will handle it.
miker
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Based on Charlie's experience, you probably had 4.5 lbs at the carb. With a 14lb pump, it'll hold the set pressure irregardless of flow.

I've run a number of high pressure pumps on my blower motors. I've always used Aeromotive regulators. They're not cheap, but they work. Return lines and boost reference ports. All hooked up the dyno, everything stay where it should.

Most carbs are sensitive to fuel pressure in regard to float level. Or flooding if it's too high. I'd start out low, look for a lean condition, and run the pressure up in small increments.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
slumlord444
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Expalin the need for a return line. Didn't have one with the red pump and no issues. Blue pump comes with a pressure regujlator and as long as I set the pressure at the correct pressure why do I need a return line?
Thats going to be a plumbing nightmare that I don't really want to deal with.
Ted
Posted 7 Years Ago
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When running Holley Teapot carbs on the dyno, I typically set the fuel pressure at idle to 5-5½ lbs.  This mimics the factory mechanical fuel pump pressure.  Probably doesn’t make much difference but many of the Teapot carbs I run on the dyno have a Daytona Carb Parts needle and seat which is a different design from the original parts.  When running conventional Holleys on the dyno, I set the fuel pressure in the 6-6½ # range and avoid the 7+ numbers.  I have found problems with aeration of the fuel in the bowls when the pressure is abnormally high.  While the 4150/4160 Holleys do not appear to be float level sensitive to the fuel pressure, the Edelbrock carbs are.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


slumlord444
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted. Do I need a return line?
NoShortcuts
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Slumlord.  This is related, but perhaps not relevant.

At this year's Ford Carlisle Show June 1-4, I learned that the Phase I supercharged 'Birds came without a fuel return line.  One of the changes on the Phase II supercharged 'Birds was the use of a fuel return line to the gas tank. 

Interestingly, NO Phase I or Phase II supercharged passenger cars used fuel return lines, just the Phase II 'Birds!

From the F code owners I had the opportunity to speak with or hear from at the Carlisle Show, I learned that the fuel return line was used on the second generation supercharged 'Birds because of the elevated under-the-hood temperatures.  The use of the fuel return line provides a continuous flow of fuel AND the circulation of fuel in the fuel lines and in the gas tank.  The circulation of fuel in the lines and in the fuel tank reduces the fuel temperature to the carburetor and prevents vapor lock.

Frank Stubbs drove his Phase I supercharged '57 'Bird from Washington State (?!?) for the All Ford Carlisle Show this year and was reporting having repeated vapor lock problems in traffic. 

Another potential problem with elevated under hood temperatures with the E code 'Birds can be percolation, i.e., the fuel in the carburetor bowls boiling-over into the intake manifold.  This may be prevented with the use of phenolic plastic spacer(s) OR oversized versions of the original  'Bird E code aluminum spacers.  The oversized spacers I'm thinking of would be ~20 gauge in thickness and overhang the carburetor bases so that the sandwiched aluminum spacer can act as a heat dissipator to the under-hood air.

Food for thought. Hope it helps.

Regards,


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York


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