I was getting my '55 T-bird ready for annual inspection, and when I checked the lights, the left brake light in the rear did not work, and the left rear turn signal does not work.  The light does come on when the headlights are pulled on.  I have checked the bulb, the wiring, and don't see anything at the rear that looks like the culprit, so I am checking forward to the firewall.  Any ideas?  The front turn signal light comes on but does not blink when the left turn signal lever is actuated.  The inside indicator comes on but does not blink.    Thanks in advance.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Try cleaning and re tightening the grounds.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Joe, Your problem is somewhere from the turn signal switch to the left rear bulb. I would substitute a new bulb first. If it's not the bulb you have to go up to the wiring harness at the steering column that goes to the turn signal switch and start trouble shooting there. Your right brake light works so it's not the brake light switch or fuse. The left running light works so it is not a bad ground at the socket. The front left and dash indicator are not blinking because without the rear bulb lighting there is not enough current to make the thermal blinker interrupter switch work. You need to check the lead coming from the turn signal switch that goes back to the left rear lamp. There are plugs at the steering column the you can disconnect and check with a test lamp for power. I don't have wiring diagram for a 55 to tell you the color code for the one wire you need to check. Maybe someone here does. If you find there is no power coming from the switch you have a switch problem.

I did substitute another 1157 bulb, but now I am wondering if that is the right bulb for a 12V system conversion.  Also, everything worked the last time I drove the car, so it seems to follow that it is in the lever control/switch area as you mention.  The steering wheel is pushed all the way down so I can get in easier.  I will try to probe the wiring Monday.  Joe-JDC

JDC

I've got no argument with the above. But having rebuilt my 55 steering column a few years ago, one more thing before you replace the turn signal switch. Check the wires for countinuity one by one from the switch to under the dash where it comes out of the column. Mine was working when I pulled the column and pulled it apart to have it rechromed. The wiring harness was toast, cracked, etc. but still working. It's a pain, but no point replacing the switch if the wiring is broken in the middle. If you have to go that far, do the horn wire too.



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Is your car 6 volt or 12.  If six, the 1157 (12volt) bulb will not work

If 12 volt, run a temporary ground from the taillight housing to  bare metal spot or to the bumper.  Then check it.

If that does not work, test the line going to stop/signal light for power with a test light. .

If no power there, start gong back on the line to find out where the problem is.  One spot may be the connector under the dash that the column wires go to.  Wire has come out or some other problem.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Converted to 12V with alternator, new battery, new bulbs.  Ordered new taillight assemblies, new back up light assemblies, and new license plate light assembly.  Going to try to eliminate future problems with this.  The lady I bought this car from was taken advantage of by so many folks it is maddening.  I am finding more and more things that were paid for, but not repaired as supposed.  I found a wire twisted together without any protection, no solder, no tape, no splice, another broken wire, rusted sockets, etc.   I think I am going to modernize everything and not worry about originality anymore.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Not to hijack the thread but that reminded me of an old VW Beetle we had.  It was bought used but not ever abused.  A 1960 model.  The fuse panel was under the hood/bonnet behind a bit of a cardboard cover to protect it from the luggage area.  We discovered that if you removed the radio fuse the engine stopped and would not start.  Reinsert the fuse and everything was fine again.  I have no idea if this was a normal situation or if a previous change had wired something through that fuse that didn't belong there.  But it was definitely what happened.  A true story.

My 56 was working fine. I removed everything to have the body blasted and repainted. On assembly my turn signals started working intermittent. Drove me crazy; I even added grounds to the rear tail light housings. I checked the fuse that fed the blinker relay and it was good. I finally checked the feed from that fuse and there was no power. I looked in the fuse holder and saw a small amount of the plastic in its manufacturing over the fuse contact. It has been in the car for the last 5 yrs I've owned the car without a problem. I changed the complete fuse holder and everything went back to working. It's a pain in the butt to lay on your back working under a dash as everyone knows especially when your 72. Good luck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Take the front seat out if your going to be under there for long. Its 4 bolts and some help lifting. Someday I need to do a full underdash rewire of my Vicky and will remove the seat for that.


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire