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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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I was getting my '55 T-bird ready for annual inspection, and when I checked the lights, the left brake light in the rear did not work, and the left rear turn signal does not work. The light does come on when the headlights are pulled on. I have checked the bulb, the wiring, and don't see anything at the rear that looks like the culprit, so I am checking forward to the firewall. Any ideas? The front turn signal light comes on but does not blink when the left turn signal lever is actuated. The inside indicator comes on but does not blink. Thanks in advance. Joe-JDC
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By MoonShadow - 7 Years Ago
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Try cleaning and re tightening the grounds.
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By Sandbird - 7 Years Ago
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Joe, Your problem is somewhere from the turn signal switch to the left rear bulb. I would substitute a new bulb first. If it's not the bulb you have to go up to the wiring harness at the steering column that goes to the turn signal switch and start trouble shooting there. Your right brake light works so it's not the brake light switch or fuse. The left running light works so it is not a bad ground at the socket. The front left and dash indicator are not blinking because without the rear bulb lighting there is not enough current to make the thermal blinker interrupter switch work. You need to check the lead coming from the turn signal switch that goes back to the left rear lamp. There are plugs at the steering column the you can disconnect and check with a test lamp for power. I don't have wiring diagram for a 55 to tell you the color code for the one wire you need to check. Maybe someone here does. If you find there is no power coming from the switch you have a switch problem.
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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I did substitute another 1157 bulb, but now I am wondering if that is the right bulb for a 12V system conversion. Also, everything worked the last time I drove the car, so it seems to follow that it is in the lever control/switch area as you mention. The steering wheel is pushed all the way down so I can get in easier. I will try to probe the wiring Monday. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 7 Years Ago
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I've got no argument with the above. But having rebuilt my 55 steering column a few years ago, one more thing before you replace the turn signal switch. Check the wires for countinuity one by one from the switch to under the dash where it comes out of the column. Mine was working when I pulled the column and pulled it apart to have it rechromed. The wiring harness was toast, cracked, etc. but still working. It's a pain, but no point replacing the switch if the wiring is broken in the middle. If you have to go that far, do the horn wire too.
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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Is your car 6 volt or 12. If six, the 1157 (12volt) bulb will not work
If 12 volt, run a temporary ground from the taillight housing to bare metal spot or to the bumper. Then check it.
If that does not work, test the line going to stop/signal light for power with a test light. .
If no power there, start gong back on the line to find out where the problem is. One spot may be the connector under the dash that the column wires go to. Wire has come out or some other problem.
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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Converted to 12V with alternator, new battery, new bulbs. Ordered new taillight assemblies, new back up light assemblies, and new license plate light assembly. Going to try to eliminate future problems with this. The lady I bought this car from was taken advantage of by so many folks it is maddening. I am finding more and more things that were paid for, but not repaired as supposed. I found a wire twisted together without any protection, no solder, no tape, no splice, another broken wire, rusted sockets, etc. I think I am going to modernize everything and not worry about originality anymore. Joe-JDC
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By Meandean - 7 Years Ago
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Not to hijack the thread but that reminded me of an old VW Beetle we had. It was bought used but not ever abused. A 1960 model. The fuse panel was under the hood/bonnet behind a bit of a cardboard cover to protect it from the luggage area. We discovered that if you removed the radio fuse the engine stopped and would not start. Reinsert the fuse and everything was fine again. I have no idea if this was a normal situation or if a previous change had wired something through that fuse that didn't belong there. But it was definitely what happened. A true story.
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By DryLakesRacer - 7 Years Ago
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My 56 was working fine. I removed everything to have the body blasted and repainted. On assembly my turn signals started working intermittent. Drove me crazy; I even added grounds to the rear tail light housings. I checked the fuse that fed the blinker relay and it was good. I finally checked the feed from that fuse and there was no power. I looked in the fuse holder and saw a small amount of the plastic in its manufacturing over the fuse contact. It has been in the car for the last 5 yrs I've owned the car without a problem. I changed the complete fuse holder and everything went back to working. It's a pain in the butt to lay on your back working under a dash as everyone knows especially when your 72. Good luck.
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By MoonShadow - 7 Years Ago
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Take the front seat out if your going to be under there for long. Its 4 bolts and some help lifting. Someday I need to do a full underdash rewire of my Vicky and will remove the seat for that.
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By dbird - 7 Years Ago
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I'd have to disagree with MoonShadow and 56Roger, taking the seat out on a 'Bird is a PITA because of the power seat mechanism.
However, taking the steering wheel off is just one nut and a puller, then you could check continuity from the switch to the light as well as checking to see if the switch is working properly. Of course a wiring diagram would be a big help, but I or someone else here could give you the color codes.
I would lose my right brake light occasionally, but the turn signal worked which turned out to be the signal switch.
Don
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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All 55's came with power seats and they are a PITA to remove and put back in. I know, I got a 56 with power seats and had to remove it a couple of times.
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By DryLakesRacer - 7 Years Ago
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This thread isn't about front seats but no thanks on removing it again. For me that entails disassembly. That's how I had to do it for the repaint, even the upholsty shop that did the carpet and headliner did not enjoy the front studs. I have found 2 milk crates and a moving blanket from Harbor Freight can make laying prone a lot easier. I will not comment on working on something 3" from your nose and not being able to focus. Getting old is not for the weak...
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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I'll be 71 in a few weeks myself. LOL I sure hope I can isolate the problem before having to remove the seat assembly. I was planning on installing my new engine, T-5, shifter, and new carpet all at one time, but this electrical gremlin may change the sequence of everything. I need to get the car inspected to keep from having to pay late fees for the renewal on license plates. I have pulled some wire to replace a couple of sections, and hopefully when the new light assemblies arrive from Larry's Thunderbird I can isolate the problem or fix it at that time. The next thing will be pulling the steering wheel and turn signal assembly. Joe-JDC
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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did you check to see if you have power to the light?
Joe-JDC (4/25/2017)
I'll be 71 in a few weeks myself. LOL I sure hope I can isolate the problem before having to remove the seat assembly. I was planning on installing my new engine, T-5, shifter, and new carpet all at one time, but this electrical gremlin may change the sequence of everything. I need to get the car inspected to keep from having to pay late fees for the renewal on license plates. I have pulled some wire to replace a couple of sections, and hopefully when the new light assemblies arrive from Larry's Thunderbird I can isolate the problem or fix it at that time. The next thing will be pulling the steering wheel and turn signal assembly. Joe-JDC
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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Tail light works, but not brake light or turn signal. Left rear. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 7 Years Ago
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Just going to think out loud here, based on previous comments.
The taillight works, so it's not the ground.
The front turn comes on, but doesn't blink. I suppose it could be the switch, but I think the lack of load as stated above is the reason. So the switch is good.
That leaves the wire from the turn signal switch to the rear light. IIRC, the blinker is upstream from that as it feeds both sides. I.E., left and right. The rear running light is dimmer, and always on. The brake light flashes for the turn. The front isn't tied into the brake light switch. The right brake light works, so that switch works.
It's been years since I rewired my bird with an aftermarket fuse panel, and changed to a tilt/tele coulmn, so I don't remember whether the taillight harness goes down the left side of the seat or under the center with the power seat wires.
If you can isolate the brake/turn wire under the dash, and run a long jumper back to the trunk, a bulb in a socket as a test light would show if it's broken in the middle.
OT, pulling the seat is a pain. The new carpets and a T-5 are probably going to require it. If you've got any under dash work, do it then. I like the milk crate idea, I'm 67, and getting old is h---. Not a problem getting under there, but need help to get out.
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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I talking about the wire that supplies power to the stop and signal light. If you don't have power there, the new lights won't help. Have someone step on the brake and check for power at the light with a test light.
paul2748 (4/26/2017)
did you check to see if you have power to the light? Joe-JDC (4/25/2017)
I'll be 71 in a few weeks myself. LOL I sure hope I can isolate the problem before having to remove the seat assembly. I was planning on installing my new engine, T-5, shifter, and new carpet all at one time, but this electrical gremlin may change the sequence of everything. I need to get the car inspected to keep from having to pay late fees for the renewal on license plates. I have pulled some wire to replace a couple of sections, and hopefully when the new light assemblies arrive from Larry's Thunderbird I can isolate the problem or fix it at that time. The next thing will be pulling the steering wheel and turn signal assembly. Joe-JDC
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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Problems found, solved, but not happy with new parts from vendor. Found three broken wires, and changed bulbs. Replaced the license plate light assembly, and the new housing has a rubber grommet too large to fit the stock location. Also new tail light assemblies had the light socket pushed out and both wires cut completely through because the box was in the package upside down. The old tail light assembly socket spins in the housing, and the bulb would not fit properly. Drove the car around the block, and then checked the lights again. All exterior work except the back up lights, and the interior lights do not have a light to let me know if the high beams are on or not. Seems like a lot of nitpicking, but inspection stations get picky sometimes here in TX. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 7 Years Ago
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Joe, I'm glad you made progress, and I can share your frustration. I'd like to know the name of the "supplier" so I can avoid them. If you're not comfortable posting that, send me a PM please.
Mike
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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I will be glad to post the Vendor's name after I send pictures to them of the packaging, and broken wires, etc., if they will not replace the items without cost to me. I hope they will make adjustments. If not then I will post. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 7 Years Ago
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More than fair. Thanks.
Mike
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By Joe-JDC - 7 Years Ago
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Vendor called today and said they would send a new tail light assembly, with a return tag for the bad one. Problem solved. An actual phone call and making it right. Joe-JDC
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By slumlord444 - 7 Years Ago
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I have found that most vendors will bend over backward to make things right. Had to argue with one once over an antena that broke off for no good reason but they did take care of it.
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