Hi guys,

I have just got my engine running after a rebuild and I have got my 2nd hurdle. I was about 15minutes in to the break in procedure and i noticed water all of a sudden coming from below each water hole on the timing cover.
(See the rusty water dribble)


I can only assume these grooves around the water holes are to channel any minor leaks away from entering the sump. And by the looks of it this is what is happening. (This photo is from the tear down before the rebuild)


When I assembled the engine I followed instructions from this book, and used some gasket sealer around the jacket area





The water just started when I was varying the revs up (ok I got a bit excited and gave it some throttle) do you think that may have contributed, like excess water pressure from the pump? Funny thing is that it happened on both sides, or is that just because the groove runs from left to right across to both jackets?

Any insight would be appreciated? Hopefully I'm not taking too much of a toll on the patient Y Blockers on here, especially after my other engine starting post😅


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

I haven't looked into that area of a Y so I don't know the cause and effect of a particular way of sealing, but it looks like the book tells you to put sealer on the timing cover in an area where it will pretty well fill that groove, and potentially leave portions of the block unsealed.

I'm pretty sure I can see the discoloration on the engine from the coolant and it looks like that is exactly what happened.  Since the timing cover is completely flat, I'd apply sealer to the block to ensure that all gasket surfaces are  covered and then attach the cover.  Or use a gasket with a skim coat of sealer, on each side, around coolant passages
Another thing, some of the timing cover / water pump bolts need thread sealer.  Without that, coolant and oil can seep out but I don't think that is what is happening here.


Lawrenceville, GA

Rather than put sealer on the front cover and block, I always coat both sides of the gasket with a thin coat of  RTV.  Never had a leak from the front cover area.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Dennis.  I like Paul's suggestion in applying the gasket cement to the gasket.  However, I think Charlie has identified the problem in the end of his entry above.

In the Technical section of John Mummert's web site in the section titled, 'Y-Block Assembly Errors'.  Below you can click the link to this page...
http://ford-y-block.com/assemblyerrors.htm

Hope this helps...  John makes the following statement:

Timing cover installation. Check the length on the 5/16" diameter bolts for the timing cover. If bolts that are too long are installed they can contact the front cylinders damaging the block. Apply sealer to bolts that enter the water jacket. These are the 2 bolts on above and below the water passages. 4 total.

Let us know how you make out.   

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

I think I'll order a new gasket, clean up both faces and apply a skim coating of sealer around the jackets and I'll check the bolt lengths and apply sealer to the threads (had applied sealer to threads previously)

The thing that I'm dreading is pulling the dampener and re installing it, it was a bastard to install! I will have to polish the crank extra smooth this time around.

Sadly this won't be until next weekend or the one after. So hang tight if you're interested in finding out the problem!


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

On water sealing I'm an old guy and use Permatex II ( non-hardening) on both sides of the new gasket. I clean the surfaces with a razor blade when working like you are now. It will be set up before all your other work was done.

If I had the bare block I would surface stone it or use a flat body file during cleaning and block prep. Same for the water pump surface. Good luck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I also like to clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner to make sure there is no grease or oil on it. Can't hurt.

Ok, apologies to anyone hanging out for a solution on this problem... I have been so busy with work and haven't had a chance. So, I finally have had the chance to attack this water leak.

I think the problem was that I applied the sealant too liberally the first time round. So this time round I haven't put any sealant on at all. The two surfaces look like they are mating together tighter with no sealant.

I disassembled and cleaned both surfaces to perfection, not taking any chances here!

When I pulled off the timing cover- you can see the rust where the water was running


Closer shot of the side which I think was the problem side.


I have the timing cover back on and it's ready to fire up in the morning. Fingers crossed I will have some good news tomorrow!



Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

As suggested above by both Charlie and James, be sure to put some sealer on the threads of the two bolts that go into the block holes located just below the two main coolant passages in the block.  Those two threaded holes are open to the interior of the block and are not ‘blind’ holes.  As such, coolant can leak past the threads to the outside of the block.  Also insure that the bolts are not too long as they can contact the cylinder wall and in doing so will create other problems.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Looking at your picture it almost looks like the leak is coming from above the water passage unless the pressure is forcing it upward into the top groove?  There is nothing to leak up there unless it is on the timing cover in the water pump area?
I'm dealing with the same problem but not so severe and just one side. Mine doesn't leak when hot and running, it starts after the engine cools and sits over night then I lose about a teaspoon. It's just aggravating as hell after doing my rebuild and being very careful to do everything right. I've rebuilt a few Y's over the years and this is the first one with the problem.

Good luck I hope you solve it.