Hey guys,

So I've decided to break down and buy a whole new radiator for my 55' after the consistent hot running I've been getting. After trying everything else, a radiator flush, installing a new temp gauge so see if the original gauge was just off, adjusting the timing ect.

My thing is, I'm wanting to stay as original, or original in appearance as I can. There are some nice radiators out there like Champion makes one, but they're so darn ugly I think! Flat sharp angles, ugly weld marks everywhere.. looks really cheap to me compared to the rounded pressed metal look of the original that came with the car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-Ford-Fairlane-V8-Champion-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-CC5456-/181664018557?hash=item2a4c04f07d:g:xloAAOSwrklU2lcq&vxp=mtr


Thing is I don't know anything about radiators, the performance difference between 2 or 3 cores, if there's a performance difference between brass or aluminum, ect. I'm curious, would any modern 'remake' radiator be better performing then the original 55' radiator? Not because of being cleaner, but just because of modern engineering chances since the 50s.

This is the only OEM style radiator I've managed to find and it's on auction so I don't know if I can get it. Are there any other sites for getting original looking radiators? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-1955-1956-Ford-Fairlane-3-Row-Radiator-SA/401201467998?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dde87bde6cc5e46658cce2e4c1bf49529%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D401198977061

For a stock engine would a standard radiator do the job? Or do you think because of possible corrosion in the engine channels I'd need to get a higher performance radiator to alleviate my overheating issues?

I finally broke down last April and put a Champion radiator in my ’55 Customline.  The original radiator had been recored a couple of different times and the soldered seal on the top tank has been problematic over the years.  Prompting the change this time was a flute (vertical core) that was seeping and looked to be simply rotting again which was going to require another recore.  While the aluminum radiator doesn’t look stock anymore, some black paint on the top of the tank would help in that department.  I ran the car at the Big Bend Open Road Race immediately after installing the radiator and there were zero issues with the cooling.  Temperature stayed in the 165-170°F range the whole length of the race (118 miles) with the car hitting 110 mph in some of the straights.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Good to know, and where you having bad overheating problems with your old radiator too?

I kinda figured that smooth aluminum wouldn't take paint very well, maybe I was wrong.

Half Dude
Aluminum paints up real good

I have a U S Radiator 3 row (copper) in my 64 Fairlane and am happy with it.  I didn't have any prior heating problems though.  I bought it because I replaced the six with a 302.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

A little sanding and some primer before shooting the black should suffice for deterring any paint adhesion problems.
 
I really wasn’t having any overheating issues before changing out the radiator other than some temperature rise in slow or stopped traffic.  I attributed that to the original three bladed fan and no fan shroud.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Well I know somethings wrong, because my car goes hot just about as fast or FASTER when going on the highway.

Going just 30 miles away to a car-show turned into a nightmare a couple weeks ago. My non-stock temp gauge started reading up around 215 degrees on the highway. We had to pull off halfway there and sit about an hour to cool down just so we could continue.. <: /

If the problem exists at highway speed, then we  know it is not related to airflow or pump speed.

My first thought in that situation is that the thermostat is not functioning correctly; it is not opening completely or possibly not at all.  This is easy to check by observing a known good thermostat and then observing your current thermostat.  You can boil them in a pot of water or use a heat gun.to make the observation.
Another is that the water pump impeller has rusted sufficiently to make it practically ineffective.
If the radiator is quite old or even original, it could be clogged and therefore not functioning at maximum capacity.



Lawrenceville, GA

Griffin Radiators , expensive but made in America , aluminum ,well built , tanks look very close to original and they cool wonderfully . I have Griffin Radiators in my 55 Tbird, 56 Mercury and my 27 Ford hot rod.

If the engine is not puking water, then question the actual termperature.
 
Add these items to the list that Charlie started.
 
Slipping fan belt
Lower radiator hose is collapsing when rpms are up (Got a spring in it?)
You have a fan that’s actually stopping the air flow thru the radiator at speed
Head gaskets installed backwards
Block is full of sediment
Inaccurate temperature gauge

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)