Thank you Dave, it's very nice to know you guys have my back like that.

So far though my heating problem seems to be under control. I've since forced the heat-riser permanently open and the car seems to sit right where it should be at 180-185. Though it's also been cooler since last time it over-heated and probably wont be warm again like that till summer comes back around.

If my heating problem comes back I'll definitely give you a PM. Thanks again for the offer brother.

What a wonderful offer, Dave

Most thermostats rated at 180  160 195 only start to open at that temp. They are not fully operational until they climb somewhere around 10 degrees higher. So a 195 isn't fully opened until you reach 205.. Also remember that for every extra pound on your cap will usually add 3 more degrees to your boiling point. My family has been in the Radiator Repair Business for close to 75 years.would be happy to look your rad over and give you some advise make sure your problem is not in the core. We work on classic stuff from all the country. Would be happy to help you rule out the most probable part,. You can send me a personal message 406-698-0489 not trying to hustle you just want to help eliminate one part of the puzzle  this forum has been very good to me sometimes you need to pay it forward,  Dave

Well I finally got some time to work on the car today.

I tried jamming the heat-riser open and then went on a drive. I went quite a distance in a big ol' circle, the car actually stayed right about at a solid 180! It got up to 200 while sitting in the driveway when I got back for about 5 minutes which is understandable. It was a cool day today though, like 60, so I'll still have to test more to be sure. But I took my wedge out and the heat-riser may have been my problem. Because at a 180 degrees the heat-riser was still closed and being repeatedly pushed open and closed somewhat by the exhaust stream. The spring must be bad because it apparently isn't opening up the riser when the engine is hot.

180 is usual for a thermostat rating.  However, the thermostat controls the minimum operating temperature.  The actual operating temperature should be a little higher.



Lawrenceville, GA

I thought normal operating temperature was 180.

I put the second sender in the passenger side head. There is a hole there since the heads are interchangeable from right to left. May have had to get a threaded bushing to install in the head. Been over a year since I did that part. Yes I have had heating problems in the past. Now have a 6 blade clutch fan and a 16" electric fan in front of the radiator. Just got it running yesterday and weather is cool so won't know for sure until next summer if I finally have it licked. T Birds tend to run hot.

190 - 200 is no cooling problem.  That is just about right and if it is stable withing that range, there is no problem at all.


Lawrenceville, GA

Oh now? Sounds like you've got a bit of a cooling problem yourself then huh? I know the T-birds run a bit hotter though.

Is there a spot to put a second sender unit in the car? I noticed there's a plug in the side of the water-pump, would you be able to put one in there?

I finally picked up an inferred temperature gun also today. I'm also going to check my heat riser, I'm wondering if it's opening all the way when it's hot like it should. How much do you guys think a bad heat-riser would.. heh.. rise the heat?

As mentioned, installing an overflow container would be a good idea, to avoid losing (poisonous) coolent. It should have a hose in it to near the bottom, which will allow the coolent to syphon back when the rad cools. Also check that the rad cap is suitable & in good shape. If the rad is old, I'd suggest not using a cap over 13 lbs. Really old & suspect? Use a 7 lb.. Hope you solve the over heating problem..   


Paul