Paul,
I wonder if you can really get an accurate test of existing torque by merely reversing the ratchet direction? It would seem obvious that resetting the wrench #s progressively higher until it finally does not click (and the nut releases) is the way to do it, but somehow I suspect things are likely not that simple (?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Interesting comments on warped rotors.. I've owned 3 cars in recent years that exhibited that problem. Two Honda Accords & our current 2009 Ford Taurus X. Many city drivers are extremely hard on brakes in my experience, but in my wifes & my everyday driving, we try hard to avoid heavy braking. I practically drag my feet to avoid over use of the brakes!  So, the comments on over tightening or uneven tightening are something to consider. I think I'll try checking the front wheels with a torque wrench & see what I find?


Paul

Yes, dealer service is pricey. I have always justified the added expense for various reasons (though those circumstances ARE becoming less relevant):
1. Ultra complex & brand-unique systems (even though many modern/professional shops now have ready access to most technical manuals & specialized tools, being experienced with working on your specific (low volume) vehicle model, and having a large stock of OEM parts readily at hand counts for something).
2. Longer OEM warranty periods (thus no red tape or hoops to jump through if expensive repairs are required).
3. Loaner car (most dealers will reserve you a car if repair/service is extensive, or at the very least drop-off/pick-up at a local mall for minor work).
Back in the day, I always had an excellent long term personal relationship with my dealer service manager. But, those days are gone. The auto business has become so cut-throat that any service writer/manager that doesn't sell (hustle/screw the customer) soon finds himself replaced by a younger (lower paid) substitute, and since dealerships are frequently being bought out, the first thing the new owners usually do is cut any 'fat' (translation: higher paid/experienced personel) from the payroll.


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I haven't had a dealer work on any of my cars in over 25 years, I prefer local garages where I dealing with the owner. Better labor rate, better work. 

Not really a Y-Block issue (we vintage enthusiasts seldom trust others to do what we can ourselves), but it has recently occurred to me that the explanation for the continually reoccurring issue of ovetightened wheels (and the resulting rotor warping, etc.) on our daily 'grocery-getter' vehicles is not likely to ever go away. I once assumed that the now common use of calibrated torque sticks would solve this problem. But, after tire rotation at a luxury car dealer's service dept. recently, my front rotors soon began exhibiting the typical oscillation symptoms of warped disk brakes. I realize now, that even if the mechanic actually bothers to install a correct (lower OEM #) stick under the socket before whaling away with the air wrench, he may not even bother to use a progressive/staggered tightening pattern, since no one could likely ever prove conclusively (legally) that the dealership is reponsible for your brake/wheel damage. However, if the wheels are ever under tightened & fall off, they would be on the hook for mucho dinero if the jury is sympathetic (and what juror is likely to have escaped ever being taken advantage of at one time or another by crooked auto shops?). So, from now on I will always double check the lug nuts with an accurate torque wrench when I get home.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA