Here is a link to independent oil test results done by a mechanical engineer. Very interesting stuff. And a lot of it.

And thanks to Cliff for passing it along. The 25 pages Cliff talks about are only a fraction of the total information on the site.

If you read carefully I think you will come away with an improved understanding of what is going on in that lovely stuff called oil. I know I did. There are no single one size fits all answers as so many people seem to think. Those folks will argue till the end why they are right and everyone else is wrong. But everyone has their own set of conditions that need to be satisfied. The data is there to give you the answer you need for the application you have. For (an extreme) example a number of the top rated oils are race only, not intended for street use. The numbers are fantastic and some people can really take advantage of what the oil can do. But for most people those oils would not be the right thing to be using, in fact they would be the wrong thing.

My point is that a whole bunch of people can be "right", given the conditions in which they are operating. Doesn't mean the people with a different set of conditions are "wrong". As long as you know what the reality of the actual conditions are and you've made an informed choice to meet them, then you are "right". You might even be able to make a choice that gives you what you need and saves money too. 

A couple of the higher rated oils were actually cheap brands. Try telling Joe Fancypants he should quit using his top brand name (read expensive) oil in his hotshot car and switch to the cheap stuff because not only is it cheaper it might be significantly better than the high dollar brand name stuff he's been using. Get ready for an argument.  But the testing numbers are right there to see for yourself. A good number of the big brand names (more $) have products that just aren't that great.

Another interesting thing is that there are two additives that actually do work as advertised...sometimes.  In some oils they make for a big improvement, some not so much and in some they may even be detrimental. I'm going to be checking further into that.

The blog is actively updated, seems like monthly. The last update was this past weekend. Click on the "follow" button in the lower right corner for more information concerning the blog.

There are also sections on other topics besides oil.

Thanks again to Cliff. (meteor)

hard to argue facts but most shy away from facts,so many to this day disregard oil analysis,tho it saved users in heavey i equipment world thousands of $ in repairs and lost tome

Roger.  Thanks for reposting the link.
 
This testing has been around for quite awhile as I’ve an older copy of it in my files.  In performing a quick search on the YBF forums, I found at least two older threads referencing that particular oil testing.  The current read is now much longer and a lot of that is simply accolades preceding the actual test results.  There is a lot of fluff around the actual test results which makes it difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff.  The oil test results are good stuff and pretty much jives with the oil testing I was involved with in the early Seventies.  Back then too much zinc in the oil was referred to as ‘Zinc overloading’ and much of that information is still pertinent today.  I’m in total agreement with the author in that too much emphasis is placed on the zinc/phosphorus amount and not enough placed on the quality of the oil (wear factors).  Couldn't find the authors name now anywhere in the post which does tend to take some of the credibility away from the test results.
 
It’s tough to make a blanket statement about anything without taking all variables into account. Engine oil is no exception.  Unfortunately when testing for diesel fuel residuals in the oil, the statistical bell curve ends up with several peaks instead of the normal ‘one peak’ bell curve if lumping all diesel engines into one group.  There are several variables here including oil change intervals, whether it is used for short haul or long haul driving, and the hours on the engine.  The number of pickups with diesel engines now on the road simply clouds the issue if grouped with the larger trucks.  With the increasing number of diesel pickups on the road, there has been a shift in the amount of fuel residuals in the oil and that’s been traced to oil change intervals greatly exceeding the manufacturers’ recommendations for that.
 
When it comes to oil, there is one adage that comes to mind.  Good advertising sells the worst of products while poor marketing can be the downfall of the best.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

What oil would you recommend Ted? I have to admit researching the right oil is right up there with looking for the best tire to run. Tim recommends Bradd Penn in the engines he builds. But looking at the results it may not be the best.

Durham Missouri

look at5/30 quaker state ultimate durability api sn =95,920 psi zink877ppm phos921ppm molet=72ppm
or castrol gtx convention apisn=95,543psi zink tdb phos=tdb moley= tdb if you need more try rodger he has a big list.if you look at race oils not much better than the inexpensive stuff oil marketing is based on b/// sh'''' as much as facts

regarding teds info re diesel engines,the big chang in there oils needs was due to supper low sulphur fuels legislated and emission changes which forced makers to resurculate exhaust to eliminate certain contaminates, while decreasing fuel consumption 16 to25%and as well increase repair costs substantial amounts. pickup engines are no different to other on highway diesel fueled non spark ignition  engines, with 2 exceptions,all made in north america pickups have no linners
                                                                                 and 50% have bin altered with computer alterations and over fueled  and meet no emission standards.especially in canada .diesel pickups that very seldom work are the most problems and will never pay back the extra cost of purchase as well as high service cost.the ones used as designed are great

Most gasoline engines at this shop are broken in using conventional grade Valvoline oil.  The bearing clearances dictates the viscosity to use but most Y builds are built such that they are broken in with 10W-40 weight.  I will avoid oils that have less than 30W in their weight classification on those engines using a flat tappet camshaft.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

So the whole "must have zinc for vintage engines " is a load of bull? I have to confess I couldn't get through the article. It's much to wordy and lengthy to hold my attention. So based on what I understand any conventional oil with a rating of 40w is fine for our y blocks?

Durham Missouri

I think all should keep in mind that anything posted on the internet is up for question.
I did read the post and it came across to me more like someone giving a high pressure sales pitch the way he constantly repeated how he was so wright and others were so wrong. Normally a true professional would state their argument and the facts to support it, not continually repeat over and over again how wonderful they are.
I don't know enough to say if he is wright or wrong, and I'm sure much of it is true. By the way it was written makes me question its validity. 

Claims many credentials but unless I missed it there was no name attached. Not normal practice for anyone making a scientific claim.