My dual action fuel pump went out and I ordered a new one. While I am waiting for it to come in, I decided to rebuild my Holley 4160 carb and inspect the fuel line. To my surprise there was no fuel filter to be found in the fuel line anywhere. The only reference about the fuel filter in the shop manual was on T-Birds, the glass bowl type filter was located between the fuel pump and carb. I went to NAPA and bought 2 in-line fuel filters.

Should I install both - one between the tank and pump and the other between the pump and carb? Where in the line should I place the fuel filter between the tank and pump - closer to the tank or closer to the pump?

In the winter, I plan to replace the entire fuel line. Should I use 5/16 stainless tubing like the original or use 3/8 stainless tubing?

Any tips for installing the dual action fuel pump - looks to be a little tight in that area.

Thanks,
Danny

Doesn't the pump have a glass bowl  underneath?  I thought all the dual actions had it?

The locations you chose are a good idea if no bowl underneath the pump.

As far as the line replacement, I would go with that new metal bendable tubing that is used for brake lines.  In my estimation, stainless is overkill.  Unless your building a race engine, stay with 5/16.

Just my 2 cents


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

My fuel pump has one on the bottom but wanted one on the top too. All 5/16" steel tubing from my parts store and a multi-tube bender and double flare toll from Harbor Freight. Using a Holley 4160 you can bend a 90* after the filter and one more on the other side, then use a tee with one short line and a longer 90* to the rear feed. I bought some extra flare nuts and one long 5/16" line. I pre make all my lines with coat hanger wire to use for template before bending, makes it look factory.
 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

The Mainline, Customline, and Fairlane V8 fuel pumps originally came with a sediment bowl at the bottom side of the dual action fuel pump which was the fuel filter.  You don’t see that glass sediment bowl on many of the replacement/rebuilt dual action fuel pumps so many of the cars now running around are doing so without any fuel filtration unless an aftermarket filter is added.  Due to chassis/frame constraints under the fuel pump on the Thunderbirds, there wasn’t enough room for that glass sediment bowl which necessitated the use of a separate sediment bowl type of filter located between the pump and the carburetor.
 
In your case, you only need a filter between the pump and the carburetor.  As far as the fuel line goes, I’m always in favor of 3/8” over 5/16” simply due to the increase in volume flow with the larger line.  Any bends put into the line also pose a restriction so the larger lines also help in this respect.  To get full benefit of the 3/8” fuel line, the line going into the tank would also need to be increased accordingly.  If the engine is upgraded to the point it’s going to make 350 horsepower or more, it will need the 3/8” fuel line anyhow.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks to all who replied. I am going to install a 100 micron fuel filter between the tank and pump and a 20 micron filter between the pump and carb.


Danny

I'm not a believer in the sintered bronze style of filter - I'd rather have an "element" style that can be changed out. The AC GF62 unit is exactly the same mounting length as my original T-bird filter, uses the same mounting and inlet/outlet adapters - and the canister can be fitted with the FOMOCO/Motorcraft logo cans from the 60's.
 
The mounting boss of the AC filter housing can be drilled out and threaded to accept a pressure gage as well.

 


 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

do not use the napa see threw filters,the glue disolves and winds up in the carb. had 2 fail

Just something to add to Greenbird's comments. I bought a really nice racing filter, in line, under the car. What I didn't realize is those guys clean them between every pass. It's a lot easier to change a replaceable up by the carb, than trying to clean one under the car on the side of the road. At least it was daylight, and not raining for a change.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I was scrounging a junkyard recently and saw a Y block equipped 61 car with the remote Ford canister which looked original. It was mounted lower, not up on the manifold. I plan to snag it and the dual exhaust manifolds off that car.
 I've seen some issues with pumps that fit but are not "correct". Mainly the loss of the filter. Many parts stores will cross over to a pump with no filter. My 58 dump truck had that done to it. The carb plugged up before I got it home.

Danny, I agree you do need a filter before the carb. Since you have vacuum wipers they need the vac pump.  You might be able to find one of the old OEM, AC units. They are rebuildable and have the glass sediment bowl underneath. The pix is of the one that came with in a box of parts for my 59 Galaxie. Someone in the past converted it over to factory electric wipers.
I believe, hope someone corrects me if I am wrong, that fuel pumps from a Y and an FE interchange. If that is the case you have more options on finding one with a built in filter canister. My 67 F250, 352FE
has a replaceable cartridge hanging below the pump. Truck has electric wiper - so not dual diaphragms.  I like the idea of filter being integrated in the pump so you less joints and fittings in he engine bay - Bob

AKA   Bob-93021