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Oil Pressure Drop at Higher RPM

Posted By charliemccraney 8 Years Ago
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charliemccraney
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Lord Gaga (6/21/2016)
Should be OK now. That bell shaped P/U was wrong for that pan. Never seen one like it...what did it come off of?


Saw this on eBay.  The '57-'66 Ford Truck Parts Book also shows a similar looking pickup, along with the more common removable screen type.  So I can be sure that it is correct and not some previous owner's well made improvisation.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/43cd05a0-1315-4df9-9d9b-68fc.jpg



Lawrenceville, GA
charliemccraney
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Pulled the pan off of one of my parts motors and it also has the forward positioned pickup and baffle.  So the pickup absolutely is a correct y-block part and the baffled pan comes with the forward positioned pickup.

This pan is no good so I'm going to cut it up and make a tool.





Lawrenceville, GA
speedpro56
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Charlie , the style pickup does look somewhat restrictive compared to the one with the removable screen so you might want to consider using that one just for comparison and try another oil pump just in case of a flaw in the one you've been using. I've had oil pumps go bad for no reason at all.



-Gary Burnette-


charliemccraney
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I will be trying the one with the removable screen.  I think either pickup style is adequate.  When you consider the cross sectional area of the inner diameter of the 5/8" tube, you simply don't need a huge pickup for the supply.

For those who don't use facebook, this is what I've been working on since about 2 weeks before Indiana.  Doesn't look like all that much for 4 months of work, but it was a lot of work.  Mostly weeknights.  Mostly measuring, making paper templates, checking, adjusting, repeat until the paper fits, then make it out of steel.  I think I have the dimensions of anything that drops below the pan rail now, though.  I'm sure that will be useful.

I was going to install it this weekend but the oil pickup I want to use hits a windage tray mounting stud so I have to modify a pickup to get around that.  Making the stud shorter is not an option.  I'm going to try to leave the pan unaltered, from where it already is, anyway, for now.  The difference in pickup positioning should make a big difference, along with these pieces to make sure oil gets back into the pan.

I have an oil pan from one of my parts engines that has a big hole in it for some reason.  I'm going to cut the bottom off of that pan so I can use it to make a tool so that I can have the pickup installed properly so I can see exactly what I need to do for it to work.

Windage Tray.





Crank scraper / girdle / general below the pan rail dimension checker.









Lawrenceville, GA
Bob Gardner
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Nice work Charlie.  Having made my own windage tray and scraper for my MG race engine I know how much work goes into getting one right.
Bob
speedpro56
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I agree, very nice work!



-Gary Burnette-


ian57tbird
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Lucky these things are a labour of love because you wouldn't want to be making money from them.
charliemccraney
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Definitely not for one off items.  The windage tray took 18 hours from cutting out templates to the final product.  That's not including the time getting measurements and making the CAD drawings.
The scraper was cut by water jet so not much labor.  Much cost for only 1, though.  A small run of scrapers might be reasonably affordable.



Lawrenceville, GA
charliemccraney
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I made the new pickup, to get around the windage tray stud and finally got it all installed this past weekend.

It's looking promising.  The flutter around 2300 rpm seems to be gone.  The slight increase of pressure when letting off the throttle is still there.  I'll switch back to 20w50 and see if that takes care of that but I'll need to find out what is going on there.  I bought all of the proper measuring devices, so no more plastigauge for me.  I won't find out about the high rpm aspect until I can get back to the track but I'm optimistic.
I'm going to put my action cam in the truck, focused on the gauges, to record a drive to work, so I can focus on the road and watch later, in order to give full attention to what is happening with the pressure and verify that things are good, at least for street use.  If that remains good, then I will be ready to get back to the track.

The Moroso oil pan fell through, so no aftermarket oil pans at this time.









A 5/16" bolt (1/2" head) for scale.
The factory rear positioned pickup has about 1/2" to 1" of clearance between the pan.  The reason has to do with the shape of the pan floor and the large pickup diameter.  So while the positioning is better with the rear positioned pickup, clearance will never be ideal.  It can be made better, but not ideal.



This is in about the same position as the rear-positioned factory pickup.  That was just by chance, really.  I followed the instructions for the positioning of the pickup box and that's where it ended up.





Lawrenceville, GA
charliemccraney
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Well, it looks like I am on the right track.  Hot pressure seems to be about 5psi better throughout the range, with no strange behavior for street use.  Cold pressure, on the other hand has gotten worse.  Max is about 40psi and it gets worse as the ambient temperature drops.  This is a new issue as there was never any problem with cold pressure before and it would always reach the bypass pressure of about 80psi.  I can see bubbles in the oil on the dipstick when this occurs.  Once the coolant temperature gauge starts to register a temperature, pressure looks great.  When I say "starts to register a temperature," the gauge starts at 100 degrees so right about when the gauge moves off the 100 mark is what I mean.  I've checked the easy stuff, inlet tube nut, pump bolts, oil level and those seem good.
Even though the pressure is good hot, there is evidence of aeration even then, but it is much less severe.  Unfortunately, I never had a proper dipstick and tube for the rear sump before, so I can't know if that is any different.

I think the problem has to do with the windage tray and the way I designed it for use with the scraper.  They sort of overlap on the business side of the scraper, with only about 3/8" of clearance between the tray and scraper.  So oil that the scraper has removed does not really have an effective way to drain and the problem is compounded by the cooler, thicker oil.  The tray is more or less U shaped and I think a more J shaped tray with a little more room between the pan wall might be better.  I think I'll remove the tray all together to see if it improves.  If it does, then it is back to the drawing board with that.



Lawrenceville, GA


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