The throttle linkage doesn't match up  from the holley 4000 to the holley 0-8007, I need some kind of bushing to go to the bigger hole on the carb so it will clear all other parts when the gas pedal is depressed  and is properly aligned plus part of the linkage body from the car linkage is hitting the manifold itself, I can fix that but my main problem is the car starts and runs fine until the car is place in gear and it acts like bad gas, crossed plug wires or timing is off but after it gets going it runs like a top, keep in mind I was only able to drive it about a half mile total due to the rigged up gas linkage.
My friend that did the work said it is timed correctly from #1 plug which was tdc but he had to time it by sound because there aren't any timing markers or marks on the harmonic balancer.
Now my friend is a total  scrubrolet    guy, he was doing this fro me as a favor because physically I'm unable to do the work so he isn't familiar with yblocks or fords in general so there is definitely room for error.
your help would be most appreciated from people who made the same modifications.
I am unable to type scrubrolet , it turns it into scrubjet. Don't know what is up with that.

Ok, I'm guessing here what your looking for. But there have been a variety of bushings for the larger hole (I just looked up the Holley number and looked at the picture). This is one example. Google "Holley throttle rod bushing", there's several that come up.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Longacre+Racing/441/32707/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180000856737&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-67754331191:pla-177199793351&catargetid=230006180003463481&cadevice=t&gclid=CLHeis7stMwCFU1bfgodKY8Irw

I've seen them over the years that are also a rubber/metal combination.

On the idle problem a couple other things come to mind. One is the advance, and the lack of markings. A picture here would really help.

The second is that some manifold/carb combinations are a little tricky to get the gaskets right-it's real easy to get a leak there. Again, a picture would help, and the casting number off the manifold. Someone here will be able to be of more help with more info.

Bad gas has always been a won't idle or miss under load for me, more load than just putting it in gear.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

>Now my friend is a total  scrubrolet    guy,
I am unable to type scrubrolet , it turns it into scrubjet. Don't know what is up with that .

Hahahahaha...... Freaked me out to the first time I saw it to. :0) sorry, just found that funny........

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

Bad gas is easy to test.  Disconnect the fuel line from the carb, install a hose nipple, run a length of hose to a funnel and use that, carefully, as a temporary fuel supply, with fresh gas.  If the problem is fixed, it was the gas.  If it is not fixed, it's not the gas.

Which distributor are you using on your '55 which now has a modern carb?

The timing pointer mounts via the bottom water pump bolts.  Install a pointer and turn the crank so #1 is at tdc on compression.  Now, assuming that the damper has not slipped, the pointer will be pointing at the general area where the timing marks should be.  Get a magnifying glass, a light, a teenager with good eyes and find those marks.  When you find them, mark them with some paint that is easy to see.  A sewing needle dipped into paint works perfectly for that.



Lawrenceville, GA

You said it runs ok when warmed up so I assume it's timed correctly - but keep in mind #1 cylinder on a YBlock is the front cylinder on the passenger side while a scrub has # 1 on the drivers side.  Make sure that this was kept in mind when it was timed.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

It sounds like you need to check a couple of things on that Holley.  It will require you to remove the carb and drain the fuel, and turn it over to check to see if the secondary throttle blades are open .020" showing on the idle circuit slot.  The idle on all Holleys except the four corner idle carbs should be controlled by the idle slot in the SECONDARY throttle bores.  Adjust them by the little screw on the secondary linkage to show .020", or by bending the linkage tab on the right rear corner of the base plate.  Then adjust the idle screws in until they gently bottom out, and back them out approximately 1 complete turn.  This should get the idle to settle down so you can fine tune it and set the idle speed with the accelerator arm adjusting screw.  Also, you should check the blades at wide open throttle (WOT) to see that they are 90* to the base plate, and adjust the linkage to accomplish.  Then lastly you need to check the accelerator pump for .015" clearance between the lever and linkage at WOT.  Should now idle in gear correctly.  Joe-JDC

JDC

The timing marks can be difficult to find.  A search of how to time using a vacuum gauge would give you an alternate method. I hadn't used it before I read about it on this site and it worked fine for me. Basically as I recall, adjust the distributor timing for max vacuum and back off a little.

Don

wont type c h e v r o l e t g u y.lol

He used a vacuum gauge , got the piston positioned right so I feel it is timed right but we will see.
 

So - you still don't have a target number for the initial advance setting. A stock engine will like about 10º BTDC. Sometimes - you have to strip the paint off the dampener - and carefully scrub the wheel to get a mark to show. These engines will idle really slow - adding timing will add speed and torque and make it hold idle in gear.
The comments above about the Holley carb - need some illustration. The primary blade has to be properly positioned on the "transfer slot" down inside the carb throat. Without this precaution, the engine will stumble badly and have a very poor transfer from idle to "run". You can best see that blade position - when the carb is off the engine and inverted.


It takes tremendous will power but - once it is set-up - it shouldn't be moved while trying to adjust the idle.......only the mixture screws. The amount of additional throttle to keep the engine running should come - as mentioned above - from the secondary side of the carb. Each of the secondary bores has a "dribble port" for lack of a better name, where fuel constantly bleeds out of the secondary bowl through a small orifice. There is a small screw on the bottom of the carb - just below the secondary pot - that will hold the secondary blades open a bit - add air - and provide idle air to the engine. It can only be seen when the carb is off the engine - and most 4 barrel manifolds have a clearance below it.

Personally, I often replace the screw with a slightly longer bit of thread (cut off a longer screw) so something will protrude below - that I can grab with a needlenose plier to fine adjust. Otherwise, you are stuck with the previous advice - bending the throttle tab. I have seen some tuners replace the screw with a socket type set screw - and use an Allen wrench on it - but I don't have that kind of patience.

After setting the primary throttle to its initial position, turn the mixture screws to their starting spot. Install the carb, , fill the bowls with fuel, start the engine, and successively adjust the secondary blade with the stop screw to make it stay running. The choke needs to be "off" - so it is the first order of business after the engine runs a bit.
 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona