Hi Guys, wondering if you can help. I've got a Y Block in my F100. Its not the original engine, it was fitted some point later in its life. I was told its a 272cu, but if im right looking at the casting it number its actually a 292cu. Am i right?  It appears to be B9AE



 I have an issue with it where it hesitates now and then and back fires. Feels like the advance isnt working correctly, also the points need changing. I did order some which i thought were correct but they werent.

I've decided to go with an electronic distrubutor, but i need to know which to order. Im unsure if my dizzy is Load-o-Matic or not.  Can you tell from this picture?



Any help is appreciated.


Kind Regards,

Jay

your dizzy is not the loadomatic, the loadomatics you can see the two advance springs on top of the points plate. As far as points go, I think all points 57 up through the seventies were the same for Y's, FE's and small block fords so finding points shouldn't be an issue. I have used the first series petronics for years on one of my cars without issue if you want to go the least expensive electronic conversion.
B9AE would be a 292.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Brilliant. Thanks for the help.  Also a little bonus discovering its a 292cu. 

B9AE could even be a 312 if from Merc but would need to check Main bearing caps for ECZ!

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

If You decide to go with Pertronix make sure You get at least Pertronix 2. The original Pertronix will burn out quickly if you leave the Key turned to "run" position and its not running. I.E You are working on it but not running. Pertronix 2 addressed this Issue. Check the copper colored braided ground Wire under the breaker plate to be sure its intact. As the breaker plate moves it can separate the grounding if that wire is not in good shape.

  

Before throwing parts at it, find the cause of the problem.

You think it has to do with the advance so:
Observe the advance with a timing light and graph it every 100rpm or so to see if there is an issue in the way it advances.
Take a look at the advance mechanism to make sure everything is good, no broken springs, no excessive wear.
Test the vacuum advance with a vacuum pump.
You can also test the vacuum advance by simply disconnecting it and plugging the vacuum line.  If the problem goes away, it's probably the vacuum advance.

It could also be a carb problem and new ignition components won't fix that.

That said, if the distributor is original to either the truck or engine, then it is time for a rebuild or replacement of the distributor. It very well could be the issue but if you don't troubleshoot, don't expect a new distributor to solve the problem and be prepared to spend more money before it is fixed.



Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie.  Is there the possibility of the timing marks having moved on the crankshaft pulley?

Thanks for the help on this.  I'm unclear what engine applications that was an issue with.   


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

I've rebuilt the carb a when i got it the floats were sticking. Its much better since. It runs well in general, but its not quite there. The dizzy is very worn, points corroded and pitted, its definitely in need of a refresh. May aswell take the oppertunity to convert it over to electronic.  I appreciate the help. 

Can anyone tell me how to tell the difference between the Original Pertronix and the Pertronix 2?

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Look for the label on it.



Lawrenceville, GA