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Tim Quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 266,
Visits: 3.5K
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Pat, Looking for a stock rear main bearing cap for a 312. Contact me: Tim Quinn at 727 360 9672 Florida Or: thquinn11@gmail.comThanks in advance Tim
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314
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 7 Years Ago
Posts: 287,
Visits: 1.7K
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larrys sells them for 120.
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57RancheroJim
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 729,
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I just used a drop of Permatex on the bottom of the side seal when I installed it. I have used the RiteStuff on the china walls on a FE rather then gaskets with success so far. If I was going to do it again I would try RTV on the valley/pushrod cover on my Y.
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 7.3K,
Visits: 204.6K
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While I haven’t replaced the side seals and nails with RTV only, some of the FE guys have been using the RTV only method for the side seals and reports that it too is a zero leak option. The key to the RTV only method is making sure RTV gets to the very bottom of the slot. I believe the success to using the side seals with nails is a dollop of RTV in the hole before putting the side seal in place. As the side seal is pushed into place, that dollop of RTV is pushed to the bottom of the hole thus eliminating a potential ‘pass thru’ for any oil getting to the back of the block.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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57RancheroJim
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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When I put my 292 together I was going to try an experiment using Permatex RiteStuff on the sides but chickened out at the last minute and used the original seal and nail. I was afraid I wouldn't get the sealant packed in there without an air bubble..
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Genuinerod
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
Posts: 120,
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I bought the 292 billet retainer and compared it to an NOS 292 retainer that I had and found the billet piece to be well made, and the fit and finish good. I emailed the maker about the questions brought up here and he assured me that the piece would fit with no problems. He did say there was another guy making this retainer a few years ago. He even sent pictures of him installing one of the retainers into a engine that he was building. The only thing that I have problem with is the instructions telling you to use silicone on the sides instead of the solid seals and nails that usually come with rear seal kits. After making sure everything is clean and dry he has you inject/ fill the grooves with RTV after installing the retainer and claims that you will not have any leaks. I don't know if I will go this way. Ted's instructions are sound and proven, and I have not had any leaks using his procedure.
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
Last Active: Last Week
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MoonShadow (12/4/2015)
Pete I was thinking the same thing. Ted must have an answer for that question. Is it possible that the hole was moved for a reason? Chuck Afraid I can’t get enough detail from the pictures. I would suggest bolting the billet seal retainer to a block and simply seeing if the block and retainer main seal grooves align with each other. In the case of the rear main seal, it’s important that the seal grooves in both the block and retainer align with each other. If using a rubber or neoprene seal where the seal ends are being offset at the parting line, then it’s doubly important.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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MoonShadow
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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Pete I was thinking the same thing. Ted must have an answer for that question. Is it possible that the hole was moved for a reason? Chuck
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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Pete 55Tbird
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 721,
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From reading the posts about the rear main seal I get that it is different than the factory rear main seal but NOT if it works or not. Please enlighten me on this. Thanks Pete
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314
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 7 Years Ago
Posts: 287,
Visits: 1.7K
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larrts tbird sells them
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