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By oldcarmark - 9 Years Ago
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I noticed a new Y-Block Rear Main Seal Kit on Ebay that I have not seen before. Includes new Billett Steel Seal Retainer and either Neoprene or Rope type Seal for all 272, 292, 312 (2 different Kits). Seller claims part of the problem with Rear Main Seal leaks is distortion from age on the original Aluminum Housings. Item #'s are 262081318245 and 261880763668. Never seen this Item before. Any Opinions on is this a legitimate improvement over the original and would help solve the Leaks?
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By 57RancheroJim - 9 Years Ago
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I had seen a similar one in the past but no longer available. I don't know if these are the same, it looks good, a little pricey for me.. Says the one for 312 are on back order..
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By Barry L - 9 Years Ago
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Just something to watch for on this style of retainer. There appears to be an error in the machining. Check the photos of an old Ford one compared to the new billet one I've got. Notice the difference between the edge of the retainer to the bolt holes, they're offset on the Ford one and evenly spaced on the billet one. It seems counter-intuitive, but the crank seal area is not centered in the retainer. The new billet pieces seem to ignore this and center the crank seal between the side seals. The difference is more easily seen on the counter-bored side. Hard to really see in the pics, but look for the seal groove shift at the parting line. I believe it was John Mummert that told me about this issue.
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By Barry L - 9 Years Ago
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While we're on seal retainers....has anyone ever seen this type of side seal material? Looks like some sort of packer?? (From an old 312.) The 292 retainer...look for the flywheel bolt impressions in the now cracked back side. Got this engine given to me "It's yours, we can't get it to turn". Salvaged the crank as the block was cracked thru the mating crank seal area. Barry L
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By suede57ford - 9 Years Ago
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I bought the Billet Retainer a few years ago. I ran into the same problem as John described. The crank opening was not centered. It seems to me they had a great idea, but the machinist could not measure or program the machine properly and made them wrong. If they would have done them right, I would have tried them. Another story of taking the time to tool up for a reproduction part and missing a major detail. I sell stock retainers regularly, so I could see that there would be a need for a quality one.
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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Barry L (11/30/2015)
While we're on seal retainers....has anyone ever seen this type of side seal material? Looks like some sort of packer?? (From an old 312.) The 292 retainer...look for the flywheel bolt impressions in the now cracked back side. Got this engine given to me "It's yours, we can't get it to turn". Salvaged the crank as the block was cracked thru the mating crank seal area. Barry L
Barry. That seal material looks to be the type that was wetted with water before installing in the slots with a RTV type of material. It then it expanded in place as part of a chemical reaction.
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By 314 - 9 Years Ago
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larrts tbird sells them
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By Pete 55Tbird - 9 Years Ago
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From reading the posts about the rear main seal I get that it is different than the factory rear main seal but NOT if it works or not. Please enlighten me on this. Thanks Pete
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By MoonShadow - 9 Years Ago
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Pete I was thinking the same thing. Ted must have an answer for that question. Is it possible that the hole was moved for a reason? Chuck
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (12/4/2015)
Pete I was thinking the same thing. Ted must have an answer for that question. Is it possible that the hole was moved for a reason? Chuck
Afraid I can’t get enough detail from the pictures. I would suggest bolting the billet seal retainer to a block and simply seeing if the block and retainer main seal grooves align with each other. In the case of the rear main seal, it’s important that the seal grooves in both the block and retainer align with each other. If using a rubber or neoprene seal where the seal ends are being offset at the parting line, then it’s doubly important.
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By Genuinerod - 9 Years Ago
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I bought the 292 billet retainer and compared it to an NOS 292 retainer that I had and found the billet piece to be well made, and the fit and finish good. I emailed the maker about the questions brought up here and he assured me that the piece would fit with no problems. He did say there was another guy making this retainer a few years ago. He even sent pictures of him installing one of the retainers into a engine that he was building. The only thing that I have problem with is the instructions telling you to use silicone on the sides instead of the solid seals and nails that usually come with rear seal kits. After making sure everything is clean and dry he has you inject/ fill the grooves with RTV after installing the retainer and claims that you will not have any leaks. I don't know if I will go this way. Ted's instructions are sound and proven, and I have not had any leaks using his procedure.
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By 57RancheroJim - 9 Years Ago
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When I put my 292 together I was going to try an experiment using Permatex RiteStuff on the sides but chickened out at the last minute and used the original seal and nail. I was afraid I wouldn't get the sealant packed in there without an air bubble..
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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While I haven’t replaced the side seals and nails with RTV only, some of the FE guys have been using the RTV only method for the side seals and reports that it too is a zero leak option. The key to the RTV only method is making sure RTV gets to the very bottom of the slot. I believe the success to using the side seals with nails is a dollop of RTV in the hole before putting the side seal in place. As the side seal is pushed into place, that dollop of RTV is pushed to the bottom of the hole thus eliminating a potential ‘pass thru’ for any oil getting to the back of the block.
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By 57RancheroJim - 9 Years Ago
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I just used a drop of Permatex on the bottom of the side seal when I installed it. I have used the RiteStuff on the china walls on a FE rather then gaskets with success so far. If I was going to do it again I would try RTV on the valley/pushrod cover on my Y.
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By 314 - 9 Years Ago
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larrys sells them for 120.
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By Tim Quinn - 6 Years Ago
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Pat,
Looking for a stock rear main bearing cap for a 312.
Contact me: Tim Quinn at 727 360 9672 Florida
Or: thquinn11@gmail.com
Thanks in advance
Tim
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