Rono, I recommend you remove the trans, bell and torque converter as a unit. And reinstall as a unit. Reason being if you attempt to reinstall the trans while the torque converter is attached to the engine, there is a good chance you will damage the front pump, torque converter or seal (or all three) while trying to line up the splines (two sets) and the pump drive tang. Better to line everything up while on the bench.

Are you sure you are reading about removal of a FORDO. In your post you state, "The shop manual states in part; "Remove the bolts and lock washers which attach the transmission to the clutch housing, then install two guide pins."

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Rono, just a couple of thoughts about your FOM. First is it is VERY HEAVY like 150 lbs. Next there are two possible versions you may have either one. If you have transmission cooler lines to and from the radiator you have a one piece TQ and a liquid cooled FOM. No cooler lines you have an air cooled FOM and a TQ that bolts together. Now if you have the liquid cooled FOM you MUST clean the cooler lines and the radiator cooler of all the junk and trash and consider adding a transmission filter in the cooler return line. A good transmission shop should be able to give you a name of someone that can increase the stall of the TQ to 1800 RPM or so,  look around. Have fun, Pete

Definately make sure your guy changes the O rings on the selector shaft.
A lot a lazy guys will skip this and they will leak there for sure.
I don't know if you can still get the dished bronze drive plates in the States anymore as you cannot get them here in Aus.
I used the flat fibre drive plates from a C4 with new steel ones and measured up the thickness of the clutch packs to get them back to the standard thickness, I think it needed an extra plate in each pack (2 clutch packs).
The tranny is smooth as silk when shifting and driving with these in it.


Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod

i have tryed the removal oftras leaving torquin place. Not a good idea. by taking  it out in 1 piece, you will avoid damaging the front pump,also when going back it is dificult to line up all the splines in the torqu,as well as geting the pump tangs alighned.the steel torques can be cut apart even hear in bc ther ar cos rebuilding torques. over hauling the trans is eslf is easey if you have a good manual' ther was a poster back a few weeks ago by a expert on clutch plates

I don't know the pricing on these converters but it may be better then doing the trans again in the near future.

Thanks again guys. I would hate to do just 1/2 a job and not address the converter. As I said earlier, automatics are not my thing and I don't know much about them. I contacted the guy that sold us the rebuild kit to see if he has any sources for a converter. Could be a spendy item if we can find one.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

RancheroJim's comment regarding the late '56 sealed steel torque converter housing unit is correct.  Thoroughly cleaning them internally without cutting the welded converter housing is virtually impossible.

An advantage of the earlier air cooled aluminum torque converter was that it could be separated into two section permitting cleaning of the interior recesses that do accumulate gunk.

Frank Rice or other Forum members may have a recommendation of how to go for a replacement converter for your FordoMatic.

Methinks the hub on the torque converter is a critical fit with the snout of the transmission front pump, Rono.
My understanding is that if there is excessive clearance there, the transmission fluid in the converter leaks back into the transmission when the vehicle is sitting.  This can be another source for transmission leaks.  -Excessive fluid in the oil pan, leaks at the mechanical linkage O rings where they comes off the driver's side of the case.

Let us know how this all goes, Ron.


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

I make the guide pins just as others here have stated. It doesn't make sense to rebuild the trans and leave the old converter, I would replace it. It's probably filled with years of old junk and worn trans material which will end up in your new trans. I'm sure your trans guy will advice you the same.

Thanks for the input guys! Charlie, I have the cast iron bell housing. However, I was planning on using my friends lift down the street to pull the tranny and then bring the tranny to a guy that really knows how to rebuild them while leaving the bell housing and torque converter in the car. Sounds like the bell housing and converter need to be removed also, separately? I don't know much about these automatics, but I thought the front seal was in the transmission and that the bell housing could be left in place, but if they have seals on them also, I guess they will have to come out. I haven't talked to the tranny rebuilder about this yet. I'll see what he thinks.
Thanks! 
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Your thinking is correct on the guide pins, Rono.  I haven't used this technique (leaving the bellhousing and torque converter in place on the engine) in separating the transmission case from the torque converter.  Too, I'm rusty on the length of the transmission snout to disengage it from the torque converter inners.  I'd try modifying extended length bolts as Charlie suggested, but threading cold rolled steel round stock would probably do.  All-thread might suffice, though sliding the case on that may be more difficult.  I'm sure that you're using a transmission jack.  -That transmission case is HEAVY even when it isn't over your head!

Thoughts...
- I don't know if you have the air cooled aluminum torque converter or the April (?) and after 1956 steel torque converter that signaled the move to the water cooled transmission fluid. 
- IF you have the air cooled torque converter it is two piece construction.  The ~12 inch diameter seal between the two haves is a common source for leakage.  ~$6.75
NOTE:  IF you take this apart, locate the original alignment marks for the two sections.  They were factory balanced as an assembly.  I've seen several where they were obviously previously apart and NOT re-assembled as intended. 
- another common source of leakage can be the condition of the hub on either species of torque converter.  
- A replacement hub that mounts on the air cooled converter, #7915A, is available from CASCO (among others) for ~$75

Hope this helps.    


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York