Well I had some clear weather today after work and was able to pull my radiator to take it to have it quoted for a recore and to have the dents removed from the top tank.  After I got it removed how ever this is what I noticed, first off it appears that the outter two most tubes on the driver side and the outer most tube on the passenger side was intentionally detached from the top and bottom tank and it appears the tanks were then soldered over.  I guess this was a cheaper alternative than installing new cores.  The second thing I noticed is the bottom tank on this radiator is beat up pretty good and I never noticed it before.


The question that I am curious about is the seam around the middle of the top tank, that is a separation point for the tank halves isn't it?  I never really been involved in the whole radiator repair but I believe the cores are attached to the radiator tanks via solder on the inside of the tanks isn't that correct or am I mis thinking this?

I ask because buddy who was over here told me they wont fix the dents they will recore my radiator how ever but I explicity asked the shop when I called for a price quote on recoring and removing the dents out of the tanks.  I am sure that it can be done considering the pieces were put together by man and have to come apart by man to recore it.  Its just one of those things where if they are taking it apart completely to recore it I expect to have the dings and dents taken out at the same time otherwise I might as well wait for my new radiator to come in.  But I shall find out tomorrow exactly what the cost is going to be and I will be telling them I want the tanks repaired as this is going in a concourse restoration I am working on.  Id be willing to pay $400 to even $500 to have this done just to keep the original radiator with the original tag if they can make it look like new and function like new.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I dropped the radiator off at the shop.  So far I haven't got the price yet they will call me as they will be ordering a new core assembly from Dallas.  Down side is that they told me that they don't make curved headers anymore so the bottom of the radiator will now be flat and I am not too sure how they plan on attaching the upper hose neck as it attaches through the upper half of the tank into the lower half of the upper tank.  There was mention of relocating it into the top of the tank and I will ask them when they call back cause if the neck is relocated the reproduction upper radiator hose will not reach as it is already a perfect fit as it is.

I also found out the tag that is on mine is not the original tag and it must have been removed as B&B Radiator Inc who was a radiator shop around here till 10 years ago is who worked on the radiator and they put their tag on there.

Im just seriously wondering if I should just go with the new radiator as it has a curved bowl header and looks the same they are going to redesign the radiator for the most part and I just don't know if I want to spend the money on it and not be happy with it and have to buy a new radiator in the end.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Well if they change the shape of the tank and relocate the intake then my guess would be that it would no longer be concourse.  I think that is important to you so you may have to look elsewhere.  When I re-cored the rad on my '56 pickup I got the tanks back from the rad shop while they were waiting on the core and straightened them myself.  The tank material is very easy to work with.  Actually after I installed the rad I was leaning over it to adjust something and put the dent right back in it.  Then after the rad was filled and the engine run for the first time the pressure in the rad pushed the dent back out.


Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

That is the delima I am in currently.  I got a call from the shop and it will be $475 total out the door cost and it comes with a 2 year warranty.  They have been in business a long time and the guy that does the work on the radiator has been doing this since AJ Foyt was racing and even built some radiators for him.  But I am just wondering now if I should just go with the $475 radiator new and just deal with the non concourse quality radiator.  My orignal one is already missing the tag and has no stamps on it as far as I can tell and the tag that is on there is from B&B Radiator Inc which was a local radiator shop that must have done the patch job on the radiator which is leaking now.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Rusty  I scraped several 55,56 radiators and I saved the top and bottom tanks,the radiator shop could put a new core on a old bottom,you might ask them if they can do that  Carl 

that's what they are doing is replacing the whole center core section and reusing my tanks.  But they were telling me that the headers are not offered in anything other than flat now.  But she called me back up about an hour after I made my last post she told me what they can do is disassemble the radiator and they have only done this a couple times in the past but it can be done but they can send the radiator core to Dallas and have them build a new core for it with the correct curved header so the upper hose neck will attach like it did originally and the tank will fit just the same.  Price would be the same so I am going to go ahead and have them go this route.

Its also nice considering my '56 was built at the Dallas plant and no the radiator installed in the car in Dallas so long ago is returning to be duplicated to replace the original in the car.  I also mentioned taking the tanks and trying to straighten them out myself and she said that they could do it and it would be no problem.  So I am actually thinking I am getting a damn good deal for $475.  Don't have to wait for the reproduction radiators to come back into stock in early June, I get a 2 year warranty, and the core that is being built will be built using my original core as a pattern so it would be identical to the original core vs the new reproduction.  Its a win win win for me as I can save a little money over the $540 for the new radiator including freight and I will get it back all like new Wed or Thursday.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Let me know how that goes.

Those top tanks for '55-56 does any of them have the original tag still on them?  Mine I don't know if it broke off or not but theres a small torn piece of brass still on my radiator and if you have one with the correct tag for a '56 let me know I would be interested in obtaining it to have installed on my radiator.

Dave Doll, that is what they were telling me that's why I opted out with an option that they gave me where they will send the radiator to Dallas and use it as a pattern to create the correct bowl headers for the radiator so when its back together it will fit and function as it did when it was new.  Cost me $20 more for shipping but I don't mind as I cant wait till June to start working on this car again and have to finish it up in the hot summer months if I can get it driveable now.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

What they are going to do is build a core with a flat flange for your head sheet and take your old top header and cut cut out the old tube pattern then slide the new core in depending on how skilled they are you will have a seam all the way around the bottom of the header. There is no other way to do it We have done it lots of times if you take your time and work it, it really is unnoticeable unless you look really look for it

rusty the top tank I have that has a tag attached has the following number  either G 64-10  or 664-10,not sure what it means  Carl