Pondering over the possibilities of this project I am about to undergo, something came to mind. How much power is average with what modifications and what heads, etc...??? Carbs, cams, transmissions, gear ratios, times in the 1/8-1/4 mile? This should be an interesting thread!

There are likely a hundred variables in play here. And then there's what I'll call the "fisherman's" estimates of how much horsepower "my" engine makes..Good luck with getting anything really useful to your question.. 


Paul

Like Paul says, I can only speculate but I can speculate based on facts.  My engine is pretty much an tweaked E-code but with only one carb.  The heads are the same, but ported.  Machine work to the heads and block, and custom pistons increase the compression.  I have a few more ci and a lighter rotating assembly.  The cam is a repro of the '57 Blower cam which if I understand correctly was also used in the 285hp version of the E code.  While the intake is a single four, it should be more capable than the two four intake with the right carb on it.  I'm currently running a Holley 570 Street Avenger.  The exhaust should be better, based off of Ted's testing.  It has Harland Sharp Rockers, 1.6:1 rather than 1.54:1 factory ratio.
If the E-codes were an honest 270 and 285hp, then I think 300 is not an unreasonable estimate for mine in proper tune.  I don't think I quite have it there, yet, though and even if I do, the chassis and gearing is not yet set up to be able to use it to it's full potential.

My best 1/8 is 9.870 / 72.88 mph.  1/4 15.263 / 91.08 mph.  I'm aiming for a 14 second time slip this year.
Transmission is a Ford Racing T5-Z, 3.70 open 9" rear, 275/60-15 tires (28" tall), Cal-Trac traction bars, 3675lbs with me in it.



Lawrenceville, GA

I have done a fair amount of testing on different combinations of a 292 and a 333.  I took a pretty much stock 58 292 added a B intake and very mild cam and made 225 horse with cast exhaust manifolds. Adding headers and a blue thunder intake bumped it up to 245 horse.  I then put on a set of ported G heads stout cam Blue Thunder intake, and after quite a bit of tuning made 325 horse.  In my view it is a pretty difficult task to make 1hp/cu without some head work..My best effort on the 333 with ported iron heads, Headers, lots of compression and cam,.plus Hilborn injection made 462 horse. A 280 horse 312 would take a real good tuner. I suspect Ford pulled out all the stops to achieve that number with stock components.  Ted has built so may different combinations and had so much dyno testing that he could look at your components and tell you what it would make within less than 10% error

Weren't you able to crack 300hp before adding ported heads?  I remember someone posting about that and it required a pretty radical cam.  Can't find the post now, though.



Lawrenceville, GA

I have one of the best cylinder head guys in the country here. He is an old friend of mine. He seems to think that we can wake the old girl up pretty well. I have 5752/113 heads. If I can make enough power to wind it up, hit the in and out box and lite the tires up for a while I am good. It's just going to be a crowd pleaser at the track here and there and noise maker at car shows.

We need to keep in mind that prior to about 1972, Detroit was using gross brake horsepower figures, not net BHP figures. In other words the figures they were publishing were neglecting the drag created by generators, street exhaust systems, water pumps etc. Further it has been said that the marketing people often tended to inflate those figures for sales reasons. As an example; Even one of the major Hot Rodding magazines, possibly Hot Rod?..when they tested the supposedly one horse per cu.in Fuely, Duntov cammed 10.5 to 1 compression 1957 scrub engine, couldn't  get one horse per cubic in out of it. Close but even with extensive tuning, it was about 12 horses short.  


Paul

Paul brings up a good point.  Having dyno tested a majority of different stock rebuilt engines from the different manufacturers, most of these come short of the advertised HP ratings.  The factory high performance engines on the other hand are typically in the ballpark of the factory ratings and sometimes even exceed those ratings when the tuneup is on the money.  On the flip side of this, just performing simple modifications as improved carburetion, intakes, head porting, camming, and headers makes for significant gains over the factory combinations.

As far as Y Block engine combinations go, the Y-Block Magazine has years of dyno testing on the various Y combinations.  Some of the Y combinations I’ve done can be found on my own website.  Here’s the link to the index of articles which can get you started.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2014/06/25/quick-index-for-eaton-balancing-articles/ 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

60 over, G heads, small cam, B intake, 1.43 rockers, numerous carbs tested, made right at 250. B intake has the bores opened up.

Kenny  Onalaska, Texas

The other thing worth mentioning is who's dyno it is, and how they "correct" it. My 320cid, 9:1, 4lb boost motor made 400 "uncorrected" hp on a Mustang chassis dyno, and 211hp "corrected". That's a big difference. My OT car made 424 on an engine dyno, and 320 on the chasis dyno. Seems like a lot of loss for the water pump, PS, exhaust, A/T, etc. Looking at Ted's numbers, all under his control, seems to give good relative results. Beyond that, I'm not so sure how they compare. We use the chassis dyno to get a good fuel curve, and ignition curve, without detonation. But even then, driving the car seems to lead to some changes for drivability that are hard to duplicate on the dyno.

I don't race the cars, so making a couple of peak numbers based on gearing, shift points, and traction, isn't the whole story.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ