Hey everyone, 

I recently had issues with my carburetor which turned out to be caused by junk in my carb / junk in my fuel. So, I added a massive fuel filter:



Which is the followed after the pump by this one:



The spin-on is 6 micron and the in-line is 10 microns..

And I figured that if I'm adding fuel filtration, why not add transmission filtration. (I already have an aftermarket cooler) It's the original, stock 2 speed Mile-O-Matic. Here are those pics:



It come out of the cooler, into an elbow, filtered, and back out to the trans through the other elbow.



Here you can see the cooler better



And it's all tucked in front of the radiator. Tell me what you guys think. I'm using two Wix fuel filters one 6 micron (big one) and one 10 micron (small one) and a Wix 10 micron hydraulic filter for the transmission.

A coolant filter might be next.

I don't think a 6 or 10 micron is a problem, but some years ago I put a really fine race filter on. 2nd tank of gas, it plugged up. Very fine, almost couldn't feel it particles. My race car friends said "those work good, you just clean them after every round". So at some point, it's too much of a good thing. I've used the larger style on a motor home, but I carried spares. Changed it one time on the side of the road outside McCloud, CA. Bad gas in Roseberg, OR.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Nice work on the install.  My only comment is from my boating background.  Usually we put a larger filter with a greater micron rating before the pump and a smaller filter, lower micron after the pump.  With a smaller micron first, there should be nothing for the second filter to catch.  My setup is pretty standard, large 10 micron between the tank and electric lift pump to filter gross impurities, then a smaller 2 micron between the lift pump and injection pump.  2 micron is probably overkill for a carb, but I'd go with like a 10 first and smaller before the carb.

For what it's worth, a sealed filter like you have before the carb let me down big time climbing the grapevine between Bakersfield and L.A., suddenly losing power while passing a truck.  I'd changed it just a few months before, but it was really clogged.  I changed it out to a plastic I could see through at a NAPA along the road to Ventura.  I was watching that slowly fill up with crud over the next few months,and reading about the hazards of a plastic filter on the engine, so finally changed over to a filter with a glass bowl, safer and I can still watch it.  The best thing I did was change the tank at the same time.

Don

The filter should work well, but my only concern is what fuel you are running? High content of ethanol in gas will love to eat all that rubber fuel line. Unless you are running premium, I would strongly suggest replacing as much rubber line with steel line. I gummed up a carb pretty bad from rubber fuel line that was eaten away on the inside, but looked like new on the outside! 

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Did you clean up the source of the junk that was getting into the carb? If its cleaned up, why all the filters?
 obsession  over filters???.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I will definetly look into getting those rubber lines replaced with something more reliable. As for fixing the root of the problem. The only thing that could possibly have done it is my original steel fuel line. My tank has been lined by a radiator shop. So, until I pull and replace the original fuel line (pain in the butt) the filters will have to do.

Here's a thought
The hydraulic filter I'm using for the transmission has a by-pass valve setting of 8 PSI. Does anyone know what pressure a stock 2 speed Mile-O-Matic transmission from 1959 would make at the cooler lines? And if above 8 PSI, would this trip the valve?

EDIT: Here's a video of me testing the flow of my setup. The bottle is on the output of the filter. Sorry about the vertical video, the only position my phone would not fall down in.