I just saw this thread and boy did it bring back memories... here in Australia we originally never had anything but sedans and utes. Back in the early seventies (I was 17 years old) a good mate of mine did exactly what you are describing .. cut the roof right off that sucker! welded the back doors shut.. tube grille and some custom tail lights and made a convertible top - that didnt get used much because we had so much fun with the roof off .. I can tell you for sure there were no cracked windsceens or any other problems, that car had a hot y block for its day and then a 390, believe me it was put to the test ... do it..

Thanks OZYRAY!  That is exactly the kind of anecdotal evidence I was hoping to dredge up!!  Did you guys do any body bracing other than welding the rear doors shut?  Where did you weld, just at the seams on the exterior?  Were the door gaps tight enough that you were able to weld that gap without adding sheet metal?  Any tips for the welding part?  Thanks!!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Just now I noticed this car on my local craigslist.  56 Chevy 4-door - roof cut off.  He even posted a pic of the brace he put on the b-piller.  He left 4 operating doors (which I have no interest it). ($5,800 asking price)

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

If you weld the back doors shut you wont need the brace.

South Australia

Hey Slick, I used picturetrail.com  free hosting site, you upload a photo, and then they provide "image urls" that you can post into forums.  It is very easy to do.  The pictures live on the picturetrail website and what I paste into my post are simply links to those pics (with html code that tells the forum software to show the picture), unfortunately if the pictretrail website ever goes away these pics won't show up on here anymore.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Once you cut the top off, you'll never really be able to leave it outdoors all the time. Once the top is cut off, you'll be lucky if anyone will want to buy it if you ever decide to sell it. You've mentioned rust in the car, you may not know the real extent of it until you start cutting. I feel you'll have a pile of scrap that no one but a salvage yard will want after you start cutting into it.


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

Thanks Nate, will give it a try.


South Australia

Ford didn't build any 4 Dr convertibles, in part likely because of chassis concerns. Even the 56 & 57 4 Dr hardtops had a large "B" pillar stiffener. If you do it the car will be rendered worthless...


Paul

Well  this topic is a bit off the wall and  seems to have died out for a while, but I think it is your car, do what you want with it.  But you do want it to be more or less safe and drive-able so some amount of frame stiffness will be needed.  Before even starting I would get the car up off the ground and check the frame with the sharp end of a body hammer.  Tap hard at every place you can reach,  If you can punch holes anywhere in it then I wouldn't go further.  If the frame is sound then I would gusset it along the bottom with 1 1/2" X 1/8" angle on both sides of both rails. from as far forward as possible to at least the front spring bolt of the rear springs. Putting an X member in sounds like more work than you are up to.  Then I would brace the "B" pillar from side to side and also with diagonal braces recognizing that the seat has to move back.   Something like heavy 1 1/2" conduit to do this would work. If you don't want the rear doors to open then weld a piece of sheet metal along the back edge on the inside so that you don't make even more body work. If the rear doors are immobilized the car would be a stiffer.  Then cut the roof off the car and cut the doors down. I would take the glass out also since it is surprisingly heavy.  Make sure you have covered storage for it when finished, sitting on wet seats isn't nice.

Of course you could buy the scrub and put a Y block into it.  BTW if the scrub sold than it is likely that a Ford would sell also, so it might not be completely worthless.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Thanks Doug...great thoughts and I appreciate your recommendations for dimensions of support material....your idea for testing for soft spots in the frame is a valuable tip.  I likely would've just visually inspected for obvious rust-through.  If I were to do this I would definitely weld the rear doors, I have no interest in a 4-door open-top car (as much as I appreciate Lincoln's version).  I would remove the side window glass for sure....(no need for it).  I have two pole sheds with cement floors that are just waiting for me to fill them...so weather/storage are not an issue.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan