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steinauge
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
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I made mine.Dont know if the Edsel is the same,but the Ford(55) pins were 11\32".I made new ones from 3\8" drill rod and bored the pin holes.Works fine.
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'59Edsel
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
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Almost a year has passed, but an update nonetheless! I bought myself an air compressor and some air tools. I managed to remove the stripped bolt with a bolt extractor, and all the rest came loose. now I need to buy those hinge pins. Anyone have a part number?
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'59Edsel
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
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Oy, my fears have been realized. I'll see what I can accomplish in the next few weekends. I'll post updates as they come along. Thanks for the steer in the right direction!
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Barry L
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Last Active: Last Year
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Here's what you'll find on the other side of the post...a tapping plate with the threaded holes. Sounds like the "cage" has rusted enough , spot welds let go, and the whole plate is now spinning. Tough repair, you'll probably have to take the inner wheelwell or even the fender off. Barry L
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lyonroad
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
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I don't think this is going to be easy. If its like my car you might be able to remove the inside kick panels and then look to see if you can cut a window in the sheet metal to get to the bottom hinge bolts. To make matters worse you may be dealing with caged nuts so there may be remnants of the cage blocking access to the nuts. The nuts are probably square so a regular socked won't work either. There are sockets available that work with square nuts. Otherwise you may have to cut a decent sized opening to get a set of vice grips onto the nuts. It also looks like the corner part of the dash would have to be removed to even see if you can do the same with the top hinge. Hopefully the top nut of the upper hinge is not one of the ones that has broken loose as I fear it would be the most difficult. Alternatively I wonder if removing the fenders might give you access to the back of the hinge. You would want to find out for sure before attempting that. Barring this there is always the hope that someone else knows a special trick. Good luck.
Mark
1956 Mercury M100 1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan Delta, British Columbia
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'59Edsel
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 163,
Visits: 3.5K
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I tried to do some work on it today but, things did not go to plan…I tried to take the hinge bolts off on the body, upper and lower hinges. I ended up stripping one bolt due to rust, and two bolts have started spinning. It appears the spinning bolts are spinning because the nut the bolt threads into (which is normally fastened to the body with a clip of some type, or maybe welded I don't know) broke away from the sheet metal of the body. So now my dilemma is how to remove those bolts and fix the striped nuts. Anybody have experience doing this?
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Duck
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
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Hinges need a pin/ bushing kit- same a T-bird uses. CASCO etc sells them quite reasonably.
BOO- YA!!!
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bird55
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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I agree about hinge pins. Worth a try.
A L A N F R A K E S ~ Tulsa, OK
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rick55
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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That looks more like you need a new bottom hinge. I wouldn't think you could adjust that out. You may also be able to replace the hinge pins.
Rick - West Australia Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!
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'59Edsel
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 163,
Visits: 3.5K
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Hello all, I have always had an issue with my Edsel's driver's door not closing right. It sags a bit. Here is a video of how much play there is in the hinges. Excuse the rust…and me and my father's banter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnIVphdU3kEI looked in my manual and I see there are adjustment for this type of thing, but I wanted to get your opinions on it first. I know the rust in the body can account for the sag too, so I'd like to see if it's even worth a try.
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