Author
|
Message
|
'59Edsel
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 163,
Visits: 3.5K
|
Well, I took your advice. We'll see if it happens again It's weird that it does it intermittently though...
|
|
|
aussiebill
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 11.4K
|
'59Edsel (11/12/2013) Looks like the measurement of my dipstick is 17 and 1/2 inches from the top of the riveted metal downward.
Are you checking the dipstick with engine running and trans in park ?
AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
|
|
|
'59Edsel
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 163,
Visits: 3.5K
|
aussiebill (6/26/2014)
'59Edsel (11/12/2013) Looks like the measurement of my dipstick is 17 and 1/2 inches from the top of the riveted metal downward.
Are you checking the dipstick with engine running and trans in park ? Yes, and while everything is nice and hot too
|
|
|
'59Edsel
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 163,
Visits: 3.5K
|
Does anyone know...
Since my vent tube is completely round with no accommodations for a wrench or a socket, how do I get that thing off? | |
|
|
|
MoonShadow
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 4.5K,
Visits: 37.1K
|
It's a cap over a tube. I've never removed one but it would seem that if its loose it should be venting. Chuck
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
|
|
|
zuburg
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 48,
Visits: 2.9K
|
I've been searching for the answer to a dumb question to no avail. I have a Fordomatic transmission mated to a 239 Y-block in a 1956 Thunderbird (weird, right). Until I pull it, I'm not sure if the tranny came with the 239 or from a Thunderbird. I'm prepping to pull the engine and tranny, but do not see any obvious drain plugs to drain the transmission fluid. Do you have to drop the pan to drain the fluid? If so, how messy is it? I have two different drip pans, but am a little weary to drop a pan if fluid is going to come rushing out all over the place. I'm doing this in my garage. I also have read that there may be two plugs (180 degrees from one another) on the torque converter to allow you to drain it. Is there an access plate somewhere to remove to access those? Pictures would be great if available.
thanks,
|
|
|
MoonShadow
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 4.5K,
Visits: 37.1K
|
With the dust cover off you should be able to rotate the engine to find those plugs. If you are going to pull the transmission I wouldn't drain the Torque converter until it was out. Much easier. For the pan break all of the bolts loose the remove all but 2 or 3 on a corner. Loosen the gasket all around then put a drain pan under the opposite corner and slowly loosen the last bolts. If you use 3 you can back off the center on a bit then loosen the other two alternating. The opposite corner of the pan will start to drop and most of the fluid will come out. The slower you go the less the mess. Some shops sell an add on drain plug that you could install while the pan is out. Just a matter of drilling a hole for it.
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
|
|
|
zuburg
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 48,
Visits: 2.9K
|
I've removed all 14 bolts and the pan is not budging. Should I remove the pipe for the dip stick (which is attached to the side of the pan)? Since this is my first time, I didn't want to damage anything by being too rough trying to get it off. Should I just grab it with some channel locks and pull or pry with a large screw driver? Should I hit it with a hammer to try and loosen it up? By the way, I'm doing this under a car on jack stands, so I don't have a lot of room to work.
|
|
|
MoonShadow
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 4.5K,
Visits: 37.1K
|
Put enough bolts loosely in each corner to hold the pan then use a putty knife or screwdriver to break the pan loose. It has a gasket that will need to be replaced and you should probably do a filter kit while you have it open. Sometimes a couple of soft whacks with a rubber hammer, or a regular hammer striking a piece of wood, will do it. You can take the large nut loose on the filler tube but it will also be held by a bracket to a upper transmission bolt. The transmission bolts are difficult to start and will probably require several extensions and a universal joint to get off. Sometimes you can see the very top two by looking down the back of the engine at the firewall. Are you suspecting a leak in the front transmission seal? Chuck
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
|
|
|
zuburg
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 48,
Visits: 2.9K
|
I decided to use a screwdriver before I read the latest post. I should have put a few of the bolts back. The whole thing dropped down. A little bit messy, but fortunately, the pan dropped straight down and landed on a drip tray I had and the pan stayed about 2/3 full. Now my next chore is to break the nut free that holds the dip stick tube. I've tried a big wrench and hitting with a small hand sledge after soaking with liquid wrench, but no luck yet.
I'm doing all this in prep to pull the engine and transmission. I have a new long block and will have the Tran worked on as well.
I'm thinking it will turn into more work such as new exhaust and some suspension work, unless I run out of money too quickly.
|
|
|