best head gaskets after installation are ...........040 thou thicker than the steel head gaskets ford used, so removeing the tin bafel puts you right back to where ford started. re 2 much oil my 292 has no spill tubes,  no bleed tubes after I rebuilt this engine I can idel with  valve covers off with no splash. I find that the spinning push rods and outer drains give plenty of oil to front and rear.to valley.recentle removed front cover as drip  and found chain not worn  and no sign of poor oiling .my opinion is full oil pressure via grooved cam(deepened re advice  hear works  fine)and will be kind to cam life as wells rocker shaft and valve train

The valve spring baffles would appear to be more advantageous to valve stem oil control when using the umbrella valve seals.  If going the positive valve seals, then that advantage tends to go away but doing away with them does provide some extra misting of the valve springs which allows those to run cooler.  I personally like to run them with the stock rockers.  The change in rocker arm geometry is minimal and in some cases may actually help the geometry depending upon the valve job and/or the length of the valves being used.  When going the aluminum roller rocker arms the baffles are in the way and end up being eliminated altogether.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I've wondered for a while if the two different push rod lengths have anything to do with the oil drip trays. Are the shorter push rods made for use with the trays to maintain the geometry?

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Can/should the valve-spring oil baffles/drip troughs from my 55 heads be used on 57 G heads?

has any one measured a shim style gasket after compresed. i measured comp typ they ar .040(felpro claims thers are.039 compresed.
cant find a compresed thickness for a best head gasket,any one know. thanks

In answer to your first question, Ford used the shim gaskets until the end of Y production in the US.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The head gasket will not affect the rocker geometry. Since they are shaft mounted, the height of the stands are the easiest way to control the rocker geometry. The length of the valves and their depth in the heads will also affect geometry, so if you're dealing with a rebuild, those are other variables.
If you don't know how the geometry is and you remove those trays away, you have changed the geometry and you don't know if it is a good or bad change.
What the thicker head gasket will affect is the geometry of the pushrod between the lifter and rocker, but I think that's just something you have to live with. It will also change the position of the adjuster screw in the rocker arm and you will loose a bit of the rocker ratio.
So if all that is changed is head gaskets, you will loose some valve lift and duration because of the lower rocker ratio. You also lower compression. If you throw away the baffles, the rocker geometry will change and is questionable if you did not check so you can gain or loose something there.
Not all shim or composite gaskets are the same but a good general number for the difference in thickness when torqued is probably about .020"
Bottom line, if you are actually trying to gain something, composition gaskets alone are not the way to go but they are fine and probably best for an engine that is in service and needs only a head gasket. With rebuilds, the block and heads are usually milled and that usually makes up the difference in the thickness of the gaskets. They will not change the rocker geometry.


Lawrenceville, GA

what about the thicker head gaskets,when did ford stop useing the steal shim type gasket.I throw the tin trays away thinking with composition head gaskets it will help with rocker geo,alsother is afair diference inshim to comp thickness when torqed down

Note that stock rocker arms have two weep oil holes in them, one oils the adjuster ball and pushrod, the other is on the valve spring end of the rocker to oil the valve stem tip. I figure this weeped oil is what cools the valve springs, along with any mist that is present.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The oil baffles do help in reducing excess oil at the guides especially when umbrella oil seals are used. Regardless of the type of oil seal that’s used, my own preference is to use the baffles when available on iron head Y rebuilds. As has been mentioned, they were eliminated along with some other engineering features during the 1956 model year. As with most of the other items that were eliminated, it would appear they were done as cost cutting measures as all those changes were not detrimental in regards to the warranty and actually puts a measure of 'planned obselescence' back into the equation.

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As Frank mentions, the springs being liberally sprayed with oil does help to keep them cooler and prolong their life. Even with the baffles in place, there does appear to be enough ‘misting’ to keep the springs cool and this is with the end bypass oil tubes in place. In the event the oil to the top end does diminish or even quit as a result of cam bearing issues, then the baffle issue becomes a moot point anyhow.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)