Masterced, Undo the all the underlining, then select just the "SLOWLY" and select the 'U'. You have to finish all your typing THEN go back and underline. Hassle but that's the only way I have found to do it on this site. Same for 'B'old, 'I'talics, Font Color, etc.

Good luck with your brakes.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Sorry for the extreme delay, I replaced all rubber hoses, wheel cylinders, and re-bled the system. The old rubber lines looked bad from the outside so it was a good thing to do regardless. The only thing out of the ordinary that I noticed was that the front left rubber hose that threads directly into the back of the wheel cylinder was without a copper washer. The front right still had one, and both new hoses came with replacement washers.

I got solid shots of fluid using my traditional method of bleeding (having a partner bring pedal to floor with bleeder open, closing valve before letting pedal go up) and everything seemed to be going fine until the last wheel cylinder (front left). Then before I could get a solid shot, with pedal halfway to floor I started getting extreme amounts of bubbles again. Not only that, when I closed the valve and had my partner bring the pedal back up we could hear what sounded like bubbling inside the master cylinder. There was also a few drops of brake fluid on the cab floor, another telltale sign that the MC was the culprit.

Being very fed up with the project and suspecting that I should just replace the master cylinder, I set the job aside, ordered a new master cylinder, and wasnt able to get back to the project til now. Interestingly in the two weeks or so since it has been sitting it has not lost any more fluid. The pedal is strong, and I am able to push on the pedal with all my strength without seeing any more fluid loss from inside the MC, or drips on the cab floor.

In the directions of the new MC, it says when bench bleeding make sure not to push the dowel or pushrod in more than one inch or it will give the appearance of the MC leaking. I thought that was very interesting information. Anyways, I know that you all would suggest to just put in the new MC but since I have a firm pedal with little travel and no fluid loss, Im going to drive the truck around my country roads slowly for a few days to see how it reacts. I will keep the truck in gear and turn off the key in case of a complete brake failure. I just want to see if I lose any more fluid or get a spongy pedal before I put in the new $110 MC (that includes the $16 core and unfairly large shipping costs).

Just wanted to update you all on my progress even though it took so long, and say thanks for all the advice on the subject. As soon as I see any more drops of fluid in the cab, or lose pressure at the pedal I will be putting that new MC on. And if not I will save it for one of the other old Fords in my yard without brakes...

-----Ive edited the post 3 times and still cant figure out how to only underline the word SLOWLY - Im not mentally challenged, just too computer illiterate I guess... Anyways, Im sure you all are smart enough to figure out what I was trying to do, and no more fancy typing tricks for me from now on haha

That's true no proportioning valve, the different wheel cyl sizes sort that out. However there are many different styles of M/C you cant use a Disc / disc On a Drum setup. they have some sort of residual valve inside and probably bore size . The lines "generally" go front / front but not always..!



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

It has always been my understanding if one had drum brakes all around there was no proportion valve. The big reservoir went to the front brakes (only) and the smaller one went to the rear brakes (only). If a rear line went bad I fail to see why the front brakes wouldn't still work.....

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

In the 54 it was a pinched line in the right front. Still don't know how it happened. Checked everything out, turned the wheel to the extremes both ways an still can't see how it might have happened. That line (a braided stainless covered one) has been on the car for 7 years or more and has quite a few trips under it.

The other car was even odder.



54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Now there is something to be aware of using parts not originally designed for your particular car. I seem to remember checking mine but it was so long ago that I don't recall so I think I will check it.

Paul, how did you lose fluid? was it a burst line or bad flare like Charlie had? Always looking for things to check...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

The rubber hose mentioned might be to allow for any movement so you may need to put a coil in the steel line you have go down to the brass block on the chassis. Some of guys on this sight who are familiar with your type of car might be able to give you some better insight. I'm only guessing.

I would also assume that if you had half of a dual system fail and the normal pedal travel was not sufficient to activate the remaining brakes, then a couple of good pumps under panic should have been enough to get them working.
Also I bit the bullet recently and bought an air operated vacuum bleeder of Fleabay for around $30 and bleed a completely dry system with new lines and wheel cylinders on my own in around 10 minutes.
I would go back to the old up, down, up, down, routine after using this.

Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod

This just goes to show how much misinformation is out there. Everything I read about the differential valve indicated that it not only activated the switch, but also cut off flow through the failed circuit to prevent further fluid loss.

If Paul has experienced the same sort of failure with the valve, in two instances, then that must not be true. I had not yet heard about the pedal travel issue. That one should be pretty easy to determine if specs for the dual master cylinder which is being used can be found. Just compare the spec to the linear travel of your pushrod and adjust as necessary.


Lawrenceville, GA

One of the problems with a dual master cylinder on early cars is that the amount of travel may not be sufficient to engage the safety feature. This has been a problem when the TBirders started to do conversions. The answer, so I have read, was to relocate the pushrod so there was a bit more travel.

More to home, I have dual master cylinder on two of my cars, a 48 Ford Conv and a 54 victoria.

I experienced fluid loss on both cars. The 48 had an aftermarket kit from a well known brake house and the 54 I did a Granada conversion. Both had combo valves and were set up correctly.

The leak on both cars resulted in complete brake failure. I surmise that the pedal travel situation found in the TBirds was the problem.

Be aware that your conversions may have the same situation.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ