Hey guys, I have had a heck of a time finding an alignment tool to buy or rent to align my timing cover against the damper. My maintenance manual lists it as a 6059-A. I've seen people say a 6019-B would work, but that's for the bigger engine correct? Anyone out there have one?

If not, I was told to put the cover on loose, and start my damper on at the same time, once it's cleared down the keyway a bit, it should seal against my damper perfectly. If that's the case I'm going to need a longer 9/16 x 18 bolt to thread into my crankshaft to get my damper on, anyone have one of those? Thanks!

I bought a tool some years ago but its pretty simple. As mentioned you need a long bolt. The tool I bought has a nut and washer with a bearing between it and the damper. Screw it into the crank with the damper in place, tighter the nut and it will press the damper on. The bearing keeps the nut from damaging the damper. Pretty easy. I have done this (not recommended) with a rubber hammer. Managed to get the damper far enough on to get the crank bolt started. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Does anyone know if this would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Front-Seal-Timing-Cover-Alignment-Tool-SBF-BBF-FE-260-289-302-351W-More-/190800502261?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2c6c989df5&vxp=mtr

It looks like they should work, but the seller says that he hasn't test fit them for the 292. The concept looks correct though.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Isn't the crank snout diameter different on those other engines?

I just align mine by eye. Leave the bolts loose enough that you can move it around, get it even all the way around and tighten it.


Lawrenceville, GA

The FE crank is 1 3/8" dia. -- Y-block crank is 1 1/4" dia. Seals are the same for Y-blocks and FE engines. I used a FE crank spacer(#6700) with a bushing that I made to align the timing cover.

Seems to me like you should be able to make a shim out of some white oak for this. Get it close, cut the block a bit fat and keep taking a tiny bit off until you can place the block between the cover and crank? Move it around the circle in 4 or 5 places till it's centered and tighten that puppy down?

Never new you had to do anything other than bolt the cover on and tighten it up. Put a lot of them together over the years and never had a front seal leak. Am I just lucky or what?

Unless the engine is standing on its end when installing the timing cover, the timing cover itself is heavy enough to make using an alignment tool ineffective. The weight of the timing cover will simply distort the seal and uncenter the seal in regards to the crankshaft snout. As a general rule, if the lower edge of the timing cover is even with the pan rails on the block, you are good to go.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Exactley

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 Down Under, Australia