My local speed shop had the brushes for the 1955 Ford.
You can find them on ebay, if you do not find them at your local shop.

BTW do you have the 40 amp generator or the 30 amp generator?
The 30 amp generator has a bushing at the end plate that can be worn.
If it gets too bad, the armature will collide with the field circuit, not good at all.
40 Amp generator should have ball bearing which is better, and do not wear out the same way.
Why not check the end plate bearing for the armature and change brushes if you have removed the generator, there are only two long screws at the endplate that shall be removed, if I remember correct.

30 Amps generator was for 6 cylinder, but you never know after 60 years.
There are different regulators, 30A (6 cyl), 40A (V8) and 50A (Lincoln).

The regulator has three functions:
1. Voltage regulation
2, Current limiter
3. Low voltage (from generator) cut off (otherwise the battery would turn the generator as a motor, the proposed test method above)

So there are three sets of breaker points that can fail.
The voltage regulator is the lowest breaker (close to the ARM connection) and the current limiter is in the middle.



1955 Mercury

Thanks for evey ones help I replaced the regulator ow I am trying to remove my horns because they work sometimes when I run a wire from the battery so I want to take them apart. the radiator is in the way is there another way to remove them thanks

Not sure about a 1955 horn setup, but check to see if there is a Relay in your horn system.

Paul

There should be a horn relay, under the starter solenoid at the right inner fender. It should have three connections directing downwards.



I think the most likely thing causing the horns to unintentionally go on, is the wire to the horn button.

The horn button grounds the coil in the relay to turn it on, i.e. the wire to the horn button is "hot", i.e. it has ALWAYS 6 volts on it, except for when the horn button is pressed (grounded).

If there is any damage to the horn button wire that can come in contact with the body , the horn will go on.

However, the "hot" horn button wire is connected via the coil to the battery, there is a resistance, and the current will be limited safely if there should be any short circuit.

The horn button wire goes into the steering tube, and because the wire will twist back and forth every time you turn the steering wheel, the wire i likely to give up after a while, and after 60 years it can be a little brittle.

So my conclusion go for the horn button wire first.

You can reroute a new horn button wire disconnecting the old one from the relay, which should be the far right one on the relay (but check first).


The far left connector should go to the horns, and the middle connector should be the power in. It is three connectors because both the horns and relay coil use the same power input.

If you disconnect the horn button wire on the relay, the horns should never loud. In that case the relay should be defective.

1955 Mercury

The horn relay is working when I press the horn ring. I took a hot wire and ran it directly to the horn and it tries to beep and sometimes it beeps normally.

OK, the horns seem bad, or is it a ground problem.

They reproduce them now, $120 a pair, if you want new ones.
Bob Burgess has them and sells them on ebay.

1955 Mercury

I cleaned the ground of the horns. How do you take them out after I unbolt them there is no room when I pull them up they will hit the radiator

Can you loosen the radiator and ease it out of the way?

I will try that and also how do I get the customline emblem on the right front fender. the heater duck is in the way

You may have to remove the grille to get the horns out.The Customine Emblems should be accessible from under the car rather than through the engine compartment.