|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I put a meter on the battery and when I speed the engine up it says 6.29 is there a way I can bypass the regulator and see if the generator is putting out thanks
|
|
By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Timmy call your local parts store or rebuilder and ask if they can test a 6 volt generator.
|
|
By STX - 11 Years Ago
|
90% probability it is the regulator that gave up.
Buy a new one, they are $25 to $100.
The regulators worm out because they have breaking points that wear out, so you will sooner or later need a new one.
You can inspect the "breaker points" it you take off the cover.
The voltage is regulated by cutting out and in the field current continuously with the breaker points in the regulator.
If the generator does not work, check the brushes first, cheap and easy.
Generator output test:
1a. Remove the wire from the armature connection on the regulator which is the connection on the end plate and put an Ampere meter that can handle 40 Amps between the armature connection on the generator and the wire you removed.
1b. Or (easier, but may include wire errors), disconnect the ARM connection (lowest connector on the charge regulator) and put an at least 40 A ampere meter between the wire and the ARM terminal at the regulator.
The short-cut of the field connector means that there will be maximum charging (which is not healthy in the long run).
2. Short cut the field connection by connect a wire from the armature connection (back of the generator) to the field connection on the generator (the field connection is the lowest connection of two on the side, marked "F". You can instead short-cut the field connection (the middle connector) to the ARM connector (or the ARM wire) at the regulator.
3. Connect a voltmeter between ground and the ARM connection.
4. Start the engine with all electrical equipment off and increase the RPM slowly to 1500 RPM (do no not rev to much!)
5. The ampere meter should show at least 38 Amps. The Voltage should be over 6,6 volts.
|
|
By dbird - 11 Years Ago
|
Crude, but usually works. When I was in the tractor business, we used to test a generator by hooking it up to a battery. Good ones will spin on there own like and electric motor, which is pretty much all they are. Don't try it on an alternator though.
Don
|
|
By gekko13 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
6.29 volts on a "6 volt" battery indicates a bit over 3/4 charge. An ammeter will tell you if the generator is charging. Does the battery eventually go flat or what? A little more information might help.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
The battery goes dead after a while and I took the generator off and cleaned the brushes and armature and it spinns slow on 6 volts.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I removed the pulley and key from the armature shaft should it just tap out of the front housing assembly? I have another armature to try. thanks.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I put the original generator back on after I cleaned the comutator and I took the field wire and jumped it to the armature wire and checked it to ground with a volt meter. I got 18 volts at high idle and I raised it slightly and got 28 volts. The regulator is rivoted together so I am going to drill them out and check the points.
|
|
By Lou - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Put a new set of brushes in the generator, under $10.00. I've done it dozens of times only once did it not fix the problem.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks where do you get brushes for them.
|
|
By STX - 11 Years Ago
|
My local speed shop had the brushes for the 1955 Ford.
You can find them on ebay, if you do not find them at your local shop.
BTW do you have the 40 amp generator or the 30 amp generator?
The 30 amp generator has a bushing at the end plate that can be worn.
If it gets too bad, the armature will collide with the field circuit, not good at all.
40 Amp generator should have ball bearing which is better, and do not wear out the same way.
Why not check the end plate bearing for the armature and change brushes if you have removed the generator, there are only two long screws at the endplate that shall be removed, if I remember correct.
30 Amps generator was for 6 cylinder, but you never know after 60 years.
There are different regulators, 30A (6 cyl), 40A (V8) and 50A (Lincoln).
The regulator has three functions:
1. Voltage regulation
2, Current limiter
3. Low voltage (from generator) cut off (otherwise the battery would turn the generator as a motor, the proposed test method above)
So there are three sets of breaker points that can fail.
The voltage regulator is the lowest breaker (close to the ARM connection) and the current limiter is in the middle.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks for evey ones help I replaced the regulator ow I am trying to remove my horns because they work sometimes when I run a wire from the battery so I want to take them apart. the radiator is in the way is there another way to remove them thanks
|
|
By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Not sure about a 1955 horn setup, but check to see if there is a Relay in your horn system.
|
|
By STX - 11 Years Ago
|
There should be a horn relay, under the starter solenoid at the right inner fender. It should have three connections directing downwards.
I think the most likely thing causing the horns to unintentionally go on, is the wire to the horn button.
The horn button grounds the coil in the relay to turn it on, i.e. the wire to the horn button is "hot", i.e. it has ALWAYS 6 volts on it, except for when the horn button is pressed (grounded).
If there is any damage to the horn button wire that can come in contact with the body , the horn will go on.
However, the "hot" horn button wire is connected via the coil to the battery, there is a resistance, and the current will be limited safely if there should be any short circuit.
The horn button wire goes into the steering tube, and because the wire will twist back and forth every time you turn the steering wheel, the wire i likely to give up after a while, and after 60 years it can be a little brittle.
So my conclusion go for the horn button wire first.
You can reroute a new horn button wire disconnecting the old one from the relay, which should be the far right one on the relay (but check first).
The far left connector should go to the horns, and the middle connector should be the power in. It is three connectors because both the horns and relay coil use the same power input.
If you disconnect the horn button wire on the relay, the horns should never loud. In that case the relay should be defective.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
The horn relay is working when I press the horn ring. I took a hot wire and ran it directly to the horn and it tries to beep and sometimes it beeps normally.
|
|
By STX - 11 Years Ago
|
OK, the horns seem bad, or is it a ground problem.
They reproduce them now, $120 a pair, if you want new ones.
Bob Burgess has them and sells them on ebay.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I cleaned the ground of the horns. How do you take them out after I unbolt them there is no room when I pull them up they will hit the radiator
|
|
By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Can you loosen the radiator and ease it out of the way?
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I will try that and also how do I get the customline emblem on the right front fender. the heater duck is in the way
|
|
By oldcarmark - 11 Years Ago
|
|
You may have to remove the grille to get the horns out.The Customine Emblems should be accessible from under the car rather than through the engine compartment.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
You can not reach under the fender there is a inner piece which prevents dirt from hitting the top of the fender and it blocks from reaching up there.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 11 Years Ago
|
|
timmy4 (8/23/2013)
I cleaned the ground of the horns. How do you take them out after I unbolt them there is no room when I pull them up they will hit the radiator
You may have to loosen or remove the lock support piece that runs across the front from fender to fender.Thats what i understand the procedure to be on my 56 looking in the shop manual.As far as the Customline N/Plate removal-can you not reach down under the air intake tube to reach the nameplate retainer nuts?
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
It is too far in to reach to put the clips on the customline by the air intake tube. I finally got the bolts out and removed part of the inner fender and put the clips on.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I bought these square clips to holt the trim on but they are tough to put in. You have to put them in the holes in the body and bend them over to hold them in. is there any easier clips to get for the body trim thanks.
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
I got one of the horns to work correctly is there a way to take the horns apart to clean inside them? The other one tries to work and all the grounds are clean as well as the hot terminal.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 11 Years Ago
|
|
timmy4 (8/25/2013)
I got one of the horns to work correctly is there a way to take the horns apart to clean inside them? The other one tries to work and all the grounds are clean as well as the hot terminal.
According to the 56 Manual(the 55 horns are similar) there is an adjustment that can be made by loosening the locknut and turning the adjuster In the centre of the horn from outside..You might try that.There is a set of points inside.Possibly the points are corroded.I don't know if the horn can be opened up or not.Are there screws or bolts around the edge that could be holding it together or is it rivetted?
|
|
By timmy4 - 11 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks the horn cover comes off by prying with a screwdriver I found out
|