I’m a little late to this party but here are my thoughts on the subject. As a general rule, composition head gaskets do not require retorquing assuming you have grade eight head bolts. If you are using the original grade six head bolts, then retorquing may be necessary anyhow.

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No sealer is required on the Fel-Pro head gaskets if they are blue.

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Modifying the head gaskets is touchy. Before modifying the gaskets, it might be worth the time to look at other gaskets that are already suitable for use without modifying.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Pat, what did you use to cut them?


South Australia

I could see doing that for a stupor charged engine. But, I'd just buy the Best gaskets and not cut my own. I don't like replacing head gaskets all that much.

I've cut head gaskets out around the pushrod holes like the Mummert Modified Best gaskets. Easy to do.

The reason you would remove the materal betweent the pushrod holes is that it allows the the head bolts to put more clamping force on the head gasket where it is needed around the fire ring, insead of wasting force on the upper part of the head gasket.

The felpro gaskets have a slightly smaller diameter fire-ring when compressed compared to the best gaskets. On a large bore motor the Felpro's can hang into the cylinder wall which exposses them to heat and can cause the folded metal ring to melt.

I've went to Big Bore Best gaskets to keep the heat away from the gasket, and they have the material removed from the pushrod area. I also torque them higher than stock with ARP studs. Haven't had a head gasket problem with the supercharger since.

Pat Fleischman

I have picked up a C2 292 that has been rebuilt and has done very little work, but has been sitting for a few years. I don't want to go to the expense of decking or getting the heads milled, and just thought that the cut out gaskets were a good idea. I have a drill mounted nibbler that does excellent work on sheet metal and plastic sheet and thought i may try that. Was wondering if anyone had already done it is all.


South Australia

Ya same question, what would neccesetate the need to cut gaskets? Ron, heads can be retorqued without removing the rocker shafts, it takes a short 3/8 drive socket to get round the end of the rocker shaft but it can be done.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

In other words, how much horsepower are you running that leads you to wish for extra clamping pressure around the cylinders? Not poking, just want to understand. I'd be afraid that I didn't make a clean cut and got some material bunched up around the cut line. That might actually cause leaks.

Thanks john, i was going to ask same question.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

My question is: why do you want to trim between the pushrod holes ala Best gaskets?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Al;

I spend the extra money on the Fel Pro "PT" head gaskets because I don't want to go through removing the rocker shafts to re-torque all the head bolts. I my opinion, if you have these gaskets and are using good bolts or studs and have surfaced the block and heads, there should be no need to re-torque the gaskets. I'm sure there will be others that don't agree, but it's up to you and what you are comfortable with.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID