fascinating thread

years ago i looked at ultrasonic cleaners. most were very small and used in the jewelery trade. bigger versions were just too expensive.

small ones used peiziolectric transducers and larger ones used magnetostrictive transducers (buzzy transformers) these may be added to existing tanks but you may have to have some sort of frequency control all beyond my capabilities. years ago there was an article in HR magazine with a carb using peiziolectric technology.

re caustic soda (oven cleaner) be careful how you mix it. now i am not sure which way is correct so do some research but i think you must add it to a bucket of water if you add water to the caustic it can get pretty violent.

for not too serious rusty parts i use phosphoric acid , its in Coca cola, sometimes sold as Metal Prep.

re molasses sounds real good but i have not been able to track it down over here. is it called "strap molasses"if so is it different to any other kind??

stuey

UK

Actually Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) is an Alkali with a high pH, opposite an acid. Think Lye. But regardless, heed Moonshadow's warning and use proper safety protection. May want to refer to the MSDS for more info.

There was a discussion on The Ford Barn about rust removal using Molasses. Haven't tried it personally but quite a few said it works great and is environmentally safe...

I have used Evapo-Rust with good results. Evapo-Rust

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

I use the "purple stuff" grease killer to emulsify the oil on parts and it works pretty well - I think it came from Wally World too. They have a big jug with about three gallons in it. A good spray soak with it in an old plastic bucket is a quick "first shot" before beginning any of the other treatments.

After all of the magic tricks are done - here's a tip from a restoration guy I met .....next use "Birchwood Casey" Perma Blue - Liquid Gun Blue to put a controlled corrosion coating on the surface of the hardware. It is found next to the gun cleaning supplies at many sporting goods stores - little blue three Oz bottles are common. The active ingredient of the stuff is "Selenium Dioxide" - follow the directions please. It will turn your cleaned (washed, neutral rinsed, and dried) hardware a nice shade of Black. I put a bunch of dry small parts in a zip lock with just enough of the stuff to wet every surface. Shake it out onto an old newspaper to dry. You can paint over the finished surface - or oil it with motor oil.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

You can also soak small parts in vinegar but it is slower than CLR in IMO. You then have to brush the parts if you use vinigar whereas CLR disolves the rust and gives the part a phosphate like surface. I also saw the video on the electrolysis process. It looks hard core.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

Do a search for Caustic soda. The formulas and instructions are online. You can buy the powder at your local hardware store. This stuff has to be mixed in a plastic tub. Definately attacks metal. But the fall out is that it is an acid. That mean elbow length rubber gloves and eye protection. A rubber apron wouldn't hurt. I don't want to scare you off but when you have a bunch of small parts to do it mayrbe worth making some up. As far as disposal thats up to you, I don't know the EPA requirements for it. I've seen the reverse chrome setup with the electrodes and it seems to work. I don't know anyone who has tried it. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Seems I remember this idea about soaking rusted parts in molasses and water mix? I wonder how that would do in the ultrasonic cleaner with some heat applied... anyone out there ever try that one?

Also, the other day I was surfing the internet and found a couple of videos where guys were putting seriously rusted parts in a tub, wiring one end of a battery charger to the part(s) and the other end to piece of rebar or something similar to act as one of the poles. I believe they were using some type of a borax?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

There are chemical coating to neutralize rust like Navel Jelly and Eastwoods products. They work by applying them directly to rusty surfaces usually prior to any serious cleanup. I guess they need the rust particles to activate? I've used it on my 28 frame and it seems pretty permanent. You can put body filler, primer and/or paint on top of it. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Daniel, have you ever tried CLR. When I did my my first vehicle I came across it and found that with a 50/50 solution of CLR and water a lot of rust would be removed with just an over night soaking. Unfortunately I have a sinking suspicion that the current makeup of CLR has been changed (for environmental reasons) and is now weaker. I also found that certain wood sun deck cleaning products will remove rust. You have to experiment because some make it worse.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

I blast the he:: out of it! I have a decent sized blast cabinet and a pressure blaster for the big stuff. By the way I mentioned the Cricket device to my wife. Asked her to pick me one up next trip to Wally World. Thanks for that tip.

Hopefully someone on the forum will know what it will take to do the sonic adaption. I see the transducers for sale at varying prices but I know nothing about them as far as size etc. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Chuck you are right on. With weaker solvents (or just a cleaner that is not caustic), you gotta have so much mechanical action to clean parts that "Harry Homeowner" is left with few options. The big stuff is always fun, but I've got the hardware figured out anyway. how do you handle rust?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com