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Best oil in a y-block?

Posted By BudMan 11 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane
Posted 11 Years Ago
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I was thinking a good diesel oil like Rotella and Delo should have enough zinc. Here's link to a thread that has a chart with the amounts of that brands have in their oils. http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?86554-Diesel-oil-Zinc-content


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
HT32BSX115
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Howdy Y'all,

Oil threads usually turn into "Here's What I Use, and I've Never Had a Problem" and while anecdotal "evidence" might indicate what to use and what not to use, it's not very scientific....

Reading ads from distributors and suppliers that tout a (their own) brand is simply a biased advertisement.

Companies like Comp Cams, Isky and others will tell you what to use for break-in and long term use and you can usually believe them because they're not in the business of selling name brand oils (except maybe cam-lube additives) .....They also don't want to have to warranty their product too often....

It's useful to find articles by people who do not make money from hawking their particular type of "snake-oil".

I like staying informed by reading info from Lubrizol and other industry sites. They're one of few the companies that make those additives that others put their name on from (I hope no one thinks that all the oil companies make their own "secret sauce")

I also found a pretty good article on automotive lubricants at Machinery Lubrication (one of my other favorite sites)..... They don't try to sell you any oil, so it appears that they might be a little LESS biased.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

Cheers,

Rick

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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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Outlaw56
Posted 11 Years Ago
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I see lots of responses about the best oil to use, but nothing that would apply to an old "barn find" that has been started and brought back to life. The engine has maybe fifteen minutes on it just to get it started so I can warm up the oil and swap it out. Problem is not knowing whats been in it or what should go in it until I rebuild it and start out fresh.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's
Ted
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Outlaw56 (4/6/2013)
I see lots of responses about the best oil to use, but nothing that would apply to an old "barn find" that has been started and brought back to life. The engine has maybe fifteen minutes on it just to get it started so I can warm up the oil and swap it out. Problem is not knowing whats been in it or what should go in it until I rebuild it and start out fresh.

Any quality API- SN rated oil with 40W or higher in the multi-weight labeling will get the job done while providing adequate wear protection for the older flat tappet camshafts. On an older engine that has set up for awhile, then I’d recommend about two hundred miles on the new oil and then another oil and filter change just to help remove any rust or deposits from the system that may have broken loose within the engine. And insure the engine has a properly operating thermostat so that the oil also comes up to temperature.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Outlaw56
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Thanks Ted, done.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's
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Any quality API- SN rated oil with 40W or higher in the multi-weight labeling will get the job done while providing adequate wear protection for the older flat tappet camshafts.


Also, if you want to use a synthetic, Here's what I found from Mobil


Question:
Does Mobil 1 Contain the Additive for Flat Tappet Cams?
I build a few engines a year as I do muscle car repairs and I have been having a lot of camshaft failures. I just read that it is because the oil no longer has the additive for flat tappet cams. Can I use Mobil 1 to break in fresh rebuilt engines of '60s and '70s tech? Is it too slippery for new ring break-in? Will it give protection on new cam and lifters?

Answer:
For older, flat tappet engines where wear may be more of a concern, we offer a number of synthetic oils which are higher in phosphorus than API SN/ILSAC GF-5 oils. These include Mobil 1 15W-50 (1,200 ppm), Mobil 1 0W-40 (1,000 ppm) and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 (900 ppm). For all newer engines and flat tappet engines in normal service, API SN/ISLAC GF-5 oils are preferred for better fuel economy and for the protection of catalytic systems with lower phosphorous (800 ppm).






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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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sprink88
Posted 11 Years Ago
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ok. Now that my head is spinning. Is Valvoline good? what weight? I know the book says straight 30w. Or should I go synthetic on just a stock motor?

Sorry to drum all this back up. But there was a sensory overload on all this info.

1957 Fairlane
speedpro56
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Play it safe and like Ted says use something with 40w attached to it like 10w40, 15w50 etc.

-Gary Burnette-


charliemccraney
Posted 11 Years Ago
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sprink88 (4/8/2013)
ok. Now that my head is spinning. Is Valvoline good? what weight?

I've used Valvoline 20/50 and Valvoline VR1 20/50 for about 10000 miles each (20000 total) and it hasn't come flying apart, yet, so I say Valvoline is a good one to choose.


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sprink88
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Thank you. I appreciate the quick response for my question. I am just looking for what is readily available on the shelf.

1957 Fairlane


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