Marvh makes a good point about rebuilding C1TE rods. I was assembling my new engine w/C2AE rods & 1 had been resized so much the bearing insert wouldn't fit right & stuck out past the end of the rod. I was lucky the machine shop had 6 other C2AE rods hanging in the back of his shop.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

Marvh: Well hello again and very glad that the website is back up again. Missed all of the info. Well the build of the Yblock was put on hold, for a bit. Went on Vacation for two weeks. Then I have started work on the 55-tbird. I am getting it ready for the Knots Berry Show, in the southern Calif, Area. After I do finish with the show I will start again on the 292 build. I am going to call John Mummert this week, and get the ball rolling. It is getting car show time again, and I do not want the T-Bird down, But can get the engine satrted. For now have a good day.

Robert (BOB) Harvey

Bob

That's great you have the steel crank. You could make a pretty wild stroker with that setup. Check to see if it has been undercut as many of the truck engines were rebuilt several times during their lifetime. If you have one still std. or .010/.010 you have a winner.



Was that engine from a COE (cab over engine) truck? If so be sure to have the front of the crankshaft snout manga-fluxed for cracks, many machinist do not check that area as it is not a common spot for cracks on most crankshafts. The COE trucks had a very heavy fan along with a multiple grooved pulley mounted on the end of the crankshaft. The extreme weight and length would crack the snout behind the timing gear between the gear and first main journal. This was very common on the cast cranks and might have been the reason Ford came out with the steel crank in later HD trucks.



Let us know what John recommends.



I think you are on your way for a pretty hot build when completed.



marv

A big thank You for the info. I am going to call John in the few days. I do have a steel truck Crank, but not the rods. Bob  Harvey

Bob

I would say talk to John on the rods to use as he has both the 312 and 292 rods.

The 292 in the HD trucks trucks used a same length of rod (C1TE) as the 312 car engines ECZ rods. The HD trucks used a piston with different a pin height than the 292 or 312 car pistons to work with these shorter rods.



If you have a HD truck engine maybe good fortune you have the steel crank still. If you have the steel crank and using the C1TE rods you will have difficulty finding the pistons to fit your engine.



The steel cranks have the same bearing size and throw as the 292 car engines so should be able to use a set of John's 292 rods with several options for pistons, much more than the 292 HD truck pistons.



If this conversation gets longer maybe Ted will see fit to move to the tech slot instead of the classified.



marv

Marvh; Thank You for the info. I will call John and find out more about the rods. What I am doing is building a 62 292 truck block for my 55-tbird. The 312 that I have has a sleve in it and the guy that did the work, bored the block off set, and the sleve is at an angle about .004 The engne runs o.k. but around 3000 RPM,s there is a bad vibration. and gets worse the higher the RPM s. This block was line honed and balanced and done right.   Bob

Bob

If I was building this engine I would not bother looking for a set of C1TE rods.

if you do the math to buy a set of used C1TE rods its likely going to cost about $80.00 - $100.00 or about $11.00 a rod then you add $11.50 a rod for ARP bolts, $5.00 a rod for new pin bushings, $16.00 a rod for installing the rod bolts, pin bushings and resizing rod, shot peen to stress relieve the rod you have now invested over $43.00 each rod.

When using old rods there is always chance of metal fatigue, cracks and one or more that will not pass straightness and needing replacement so cost will increase. Another problem with using used rods is that they become shorter after each re-sizing so there can be a variance in rod lengths. One can end up with pistons ~.004" deeper in the hole than other pistons. I would also be very scared to push over 400 HP even with the C1TE rods tricked out with the ARP bolts and all the goodies. Many of these truck rods have had a very tough previous life, like over revved and worked hard.

You can buy better rods from Mummert that are made from 5140 steel, have ARP Wavelok Bolts, bronze bushings and rated 500+HP. These rods are new. The cost per rod will be about $41.00 a rod so is cheaper than trying to build a set of the truck rods.

My recommendation is buy the good ones.
John is a regular on here so click on his link for more info

marv

C1TE rods were used in the HD truck engines.  Pickup trucks did not have them.  The HD trucks also had forged cranks.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Those C1TE rods were also found in some bus engines. However, keep in mind some H.D. rods are C2AE, which are longer & fit 272 & 292 blocks, not 312s..

Paul

Craxy56f100

My book says that 61-64 Truck blocks had these rods. There is nothing here around this area that has any Y block goodies.

Hope that helps  Bob  Harvey

Bob