This is a great looking bracket. Have any of you guys tryed one out? If so, which alternator did you use?

Wichita,KS

I use it. It's for a GM alternator so I used a 1 wire GM alternator.


Lawrenceville, GA

I use the bracket and it is the only way to go.  It bolts up perfect and the instructions are great.  Very simple hook up with gm single wire alternators.  I would suggest spending a little extra money though and get a minimum of a 100amp alt from JEGS.  I bought a 60 amp to start with and it didn't seem to work that great with all the aftermarket eletronics.  If you get it I can look at the belt I am using and it will help you find the belt that fits well.

i dont mean to take over your thread but do you have to change anything in prep for more electrical power being added?

Yes but nothing major. If you use a 1 wire, you remove the regulator and associated wiring and run a wire to the + side of the starter relay. If you use a 3 wire, it does need to be wired a certain way. I'm sure someone can post a link to a diagram they've used. And, of course the wiring needs to be sufficient for the current draw. For most of us this will not require any further changes but for the few running high powered stereos and other non stock electronics, it will require some beefier wiring.



By the way, I run a one wire with zero complaints. If you need the dash light, Ron Francis make a device that detects a certain amount of voltage drop and lights the light.


Lawrenceville, GA

This diagram shows a three wire - rigged as a two......

Output is regulated at 1.0 volt above what the "sensor" wire delivers back to the regulator. So when rigged like this to operate like a "one wire" the cable running back to the battery connection has to have as low a voltage drop as possible. I've used a No.6 welding cable to build mine - voltage drop is tiny, so it keeps the output level high(er). Its attached where the battery cable ties to the starter solenoid.

The dash light wire has a positive voltage (out) on it so long as the alternator unit is functioning properly - if it fails, the alternator end switches to a ground. On the dash end the light is being fed a positve voltage as well by the dash lighting - as long as the system functions properly. Feeding both leads to the indicator lamp a positve voltage - cancels out and the light stays off. As soon as there is a problem and the alternator ceases to charge - the sensor lead becomes a ground - and the light comes on. The diode prevents the sensor from providing a "backfeed" voltage to the dash - and through there to the ignition(!) and creating a "run-on" situation with the key off.  

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Again dbzach64C i didnt mean to Jack your Thread but now you (and I) can determine what we would like to do via alternator choice! Im excited to start this project so i can turn that Generator bracket into an A/C bracket and get to work building my A/C system!