Blocking the small ports on both sides of the intake would be the easy fix.  Going to a manual choke would be one option while another is using an electric heated choke coil at the carb.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

If the hot air tube is leaking exhaust onto the intake, it is also feeding exhaust into the choke housing, unless the passage in the choke is completely plugged.  You could disconnect the hot air tube, plug it, and also plug the choke inlet at the carb body.  Then add on a universal manual choke conversion.  They look funky, but work.

Even though the ID numbers werent reported, the 1.12 generally can be a problem on the 289/292.  They were all made for larger displacement FEs, with one expensive exception.  A special 1.12 was made for performance 289s, but one of them could almost buy three new Holleys.  It may never run right with the current carb.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

The carb is a 1.12, I also took the car for a fairly long ride recently, I noticed the air inlet for the choke heat riser tube has exhaust on the freshly painted intake. Is there a fix that won't require pulling the manifold? The tube must have a hole in it. How about plugging it and going with a hand choke?





thanks, Mark

The Ford/Autolite 4100 and probably the 2100 does have a propensity to have an off idle flat spot that is caused by slack in the linkage from the throttle shaft to the acceleration pump.  Check this by slowly turning the throttle shaft by hand and watching for the squirters.  If there isn't an almost immediate squirt of fuel then there is slack  somewhere which should be eliminated.  

While you are at it you could also look at the linkage and diaphragm that open the secondaries.  There is a little curved pipe called the "vacuum probe" that goes into one of the primaries that picks up the vacuum signal that moves the diaphragm that then opens the secondaries.  The end of the probe in the venturi is necked down and this neck could be holding a piece of dirt that would prevent the vacuum from getting to the diaphragm. The diaphragm doesn't provide as much force as your foot so this linkage needs to be free to move easily also.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Not all Autolite 4100's are equal. The 1.08" venturi is the best however some of the 1.08's were used as smogger carbs on the FE 428 engines.



The best 1.08" 4100's are the C6ZF which were used on the 66 Mustangs. These have the hot idle compensator, the next best is the C5ZF (65 Mustang) then the C6PF which was the over the counter replacements for the above.



If you find a C6AF or C5AF 1.08" these were 1.08's used on the full size cars with the 352 and 390 engines. I would stay away from them as they are a beast to make run right. The 1.12" are good carbs , maybe over-sized for your engine. The early 1.12" are not very desirable C2's and C3's. C4and later are good.

marv

Yes check to get the ID of the present carb.  1.08 or 1.12.  Also the carb tag number would be very helpful.  If the tag is absent, there is a number on the foot below the accelerator pump rod. 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I would walk over a mountian of Edelbrock (Carter) or Holley carbs to get to a Autolite 4100. IMO best carb Ford ever made to run on the street.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

If your 4BBL carb is an Autolite, that is the carb Ford used on the HIPO Mustangs in 1964/65/66 so it is a highly  regarded carb. It is also dead simple. What size are the venturies? It will be cast on the side. 1.08, 1.12, etc. Have you checked the manifold vacuum and the distributor for proper advance. Until you do then throwing another make of carb at it is just a waste of time. Pete

There has been some interesting spacer info on here recently - Ted has done some dyno work that found a "hot set-up" - but unless you are going racing (higher rpm range)......it may be more important to get a "thermal" break" between the carb and manifold. If you have plenty of hood clearance an inch thick would be OK I think. Mine is only a half inch (T-bird hood clearance isn't great) but it drops the carb temp a lot.

The 4 bores in the ECZ-9425-B manifold are only 1-7/16 diameter and many of the carbs (except the 390 and 465 Holley) have both larger primaries and secondaries. What you don't want is a sharp edged orfice right under the carb base plate, it will make quite a disturbance in air flow as the rpms go up. On the primary side, the butterfly swings right down into an edge. It is possible to use a few gaskets and space one up enough for the butterflies to swing - but.......it won't work quite right with a little hole down there. Many have modified the manifold to match the larger bores (ground diameter out to match a larger gasket) - and slotted them fore and aft as well.

This photo was sent in by Charlie McCraney - the change is easy to see here.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

The carb has the long top cover,gasket covers the length of the carb. My friend rebuilt it, he is a marine mechanic and asphalt circle track racer. He does soak them in the sonic tank , or what ever its called. I remember him saying the kit covered lots of carbs, lots of extra stuff. The carb has always had a low end dead spot, which is less noticed with the rebuild and tune up. I checked and I have the B series manifold, 4 barrel. How thick of a spacer would I need? I pulled out an old version of that holley I had on the shelf, the butterflies don't seem that much larger.





thanks, Mark