Tapping on the dampers to install them is never recommended. I’ll add that installing the harmonic damper with a hammer can also damage the main thrust bearing. I have pulled main bearings out of various engines where the thrust race was either broken or cracked from having the dampers installed using a hammer.

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Here’s a link to a past thread talking about harmonic damper installers. Performing a search will bring up some others.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic21576-3-2.aspx

And here's a picture of a damper installation tool.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Autozone has a harmonic damper installation tool kit for sale at about $45. I was surprised to learn that they will give you a 100% refund if you return it within 90 days. So basically they are loaning you the tool for free. It has a ball bearing race in it for when you turn the bolt to force the damper onto the crank. Just did this in my Bronco and it was really easy.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

The correct way as explained by others is to use a bolt or the like and draw it on, pounding on end produces centerline harmonics or forces that can jolt the ring loose or break the 3 spokes of the balancer, i know because i have done both only once in my career. Some shaft to pulley fits can be looser than the new ones and may go on easier but drawing them on is good policy. Just my observations.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Well, I got it on by doing a light polish on the inside of the balancer. There was a trace amount of paint overspray on my crankshaft snout as well. It was still hard to go on, but it is on. The problem now is all that activity has caused my damper ring to get loose. Ahh....the joy of working on old stuff...

"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good."



"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

I start out with a 2 1/5 inch long bolt then a 2 inch and then the original bolt. I have broke a crankshaft at the first journal when I was a 16 year old and I refrain from beating on them anymore.

  Vic Correnti

I've put on several and watched several being installed with a mallet or whatever over the years. IMHO, the installer is better if you can get one.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

If you have one of the new replacement dampers they are very tight to put on.

I use a short length of 9/16 fine thread grade 8 all thread rod and screw it into the crank hole as far as I can, then putting some anti-seize compound on the rod's thread so not to burn the threads, a grade 8 nut and the heavy duty crank washer oiled, oiling as other mentioned the internal of the damper tighten the nut to pull the damper on the crankshaft.



We are fortunate that Fords use 9/16" or 5/8" bolts unlike chebbys with 1/2" bolts I have seen lots of broken bolts or stripped crank threads unless you use this method of installing.

marv

Put a little lube on the crank snout and inside the balancer and that should help as well.

-Gary Burnette-

You don't need an installer but it is a good idea.


Lawrenceville, GA

I was trying to install my balancer this evening and having some trouble. I was wondering if it requires an installer. I know its not the "correct" thing to do but usually I just give them a few gentle knocks with a rubber mallet and they go right on. The keyway is good and clean and the crank key is good. The hub and the crank snout are clean. I am going to take some sandpaper and polish the inside of the balancer hub tomorrow and see if that helps.

"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good."



"If it ain't broke don't fix it."