Repeating a previous question. The "B" intakes port floors in the front upper ports, are slanted downward to the front side somewhat. Was that a deliberate design, or is it a casting defect?. If a defect, should some effort be made to flatten them some?.. Also, because the Intake is going on a stock cammed engine, other than fairly extensive plennum work, (as recommended here) I've left the intake port sizes as is, (and un polished), except to open up pinch areas some, remove casting defects & smooth and round corners etc. And I've tapered the outer port openings some to approximate the gaskets. Am I on the right track?... Observation; Looking at photos of the Mummert intake, I notice that the grooves in the plenum floor are "across" it, not long ways like the "B" intake. On the surface of it that would seem not the thing to do, but I'm guessing that was done to induce turbulence..yes, no?.. Thanks

Paul

Marv: Thanks for the additional info re choke heat parts etc... I was able today to finally drill out the rusted heat tube pieces, from both sides of the intake, and was able to pass a wire right thru both sides. Based on the info kindly provided by everybody here, I should be able to sort out getting a choke heat setup in place, before installation.. Thanks again.

Paul

Paul:

The manifold with the large nut has had a aftermarket heat stove kit installed. They are about 2" long, hollow , sealed at one end  with a self tapping thread to screw into your manifold.

The original Ford tubes are about 5/16" OD, one end swaged to 3/8" OD and ~7 inches long with the centre area crimped to restrict the amount air passing through to your choke thermostat.

This tube is exposed to hot exhaust gases inside the manifold. If your tube is burnt off inside your manifold the choke thermostat will suck these exhaust gases from the manifold exhaust chamber and  the little piston in your choke thermostat will gum up and corrode from the exhaust gases it receives instead of heated clean air.

If one uses an unrestricted (un-crimped) straight tube (my theory) is; too high a volume of air likely will reach the choke thermostat due to not having a restriction  causing the choke thermostat to not operate properly due to the air supply not being "heated" enough to kick the choke off timely.

The new tube is driven in from swaged side ( I think it is the brass elbow side) as the manifold is drilled one side 3/8" and the other 5/16"

Here is a link to a tube on ebay for an example, Item number 190585605249

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1956-1957-Ford-Thunderbird-Mercury-NOS-dual-quad-2x4-intake-choke-tubes-pair-/190585605249?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5fc98c81

You can buy them from other suppliers cheaper than these.

marv

Doug: I'll keep your notes in mind, thanks..Today I tried to drill out whatever is in the lower hole on the drivers side of the intake, without success. Drilled in about 3/8". It's like someone drove a rod or something in there? The inner heat tube is definately gone from the choke side of the intake. Looks to have been cut off. I have two other 2 Bbl intakes here, and both have different heat source setups. A 9425-C intake has an open tube coming straight up from under the intake to the choke pipe fitting. The other is a 57 intake & the heat tube starts (as far as I can tell, as it's installed) at the "button" & curls up to a large nut like looking afare on the crossover, with the choke heat pipe coming out of it.The nut looks a bit like what you described Doug. Will take closer look at it tommorrow..

Paul

Paul,

I have seen two B manifolds with an aftermarket choke stove that consisted of something like a 1/4" pipe plug thread with a large (say 1") hex instead of a square.  This piece was about 1" long and had a 1/4" hole for the choke tube in the center of the hex.  Around this hole were about 6 1/16" holes drilled at an angle to intersect the 1/4" hole.  This was threaded into the exhaust passage of the manifold facing upwards. It could be installed without removing the manifold and would be covered by a stock air cleaner.  The carb/choke vacuum would draw air through this piece an up into the bi metalic spring as before.  I never used them and do not have them now but it might work for you if you can find one.

I do think putting a SS or copper tube in place of the original would function better because it has more surface area to heat the air.  Drilling out the original, pulling a new tube in with a steel cable and expanding the tube ends to fill the new holes shouldn't be too difficult.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

2nd shot at a reply.. last night the page froze, again!!

Rono: First, as John indicated, not a good idea to leave it open, in case the tube has a hole in it. But, what to do about the choke operation? I'm intending to use an Autolite 1.08 carb, which I have. Will try to ascertain if my manifold's tube is usuable? If not, it's back to the drawing board. Might be able to get an electric choke setup, but some have indicated they don't like them to much. Also, is another draw on my Generator system. However, am advised that Ford supplied Heat stove conversions, they come up on e bay now & then. But, from a photo it looks like an ugly setup. Also, I think it requires drilling the exhaust manifold.. don't like that idea to much. So am left with ???.

Greg: Thanks for the confirmation re using a Dimmer switch as an electric grinder reostate.

Paul

A lite dimmer works great for varying the speed of a die grinder. I`ve used the same setup for 25 years with no issues.

Greg Dietrich Mt.Morris Il

Paul;

So back to my original question, did you plug your choke tube in some way or just leave it open?

Thanks,

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Don & Billy; Thanks for the grinder speed limiting info. If I can't find either of the items mentioned, could a light dimmer switch in an electrical box, with a duplex plug, suitably wired, be made to work?.. John F., I think you have enlightened me re the choke heat setup. My 4 Bbl intake is the same as Rono's, having a single hole on one side of the crossover & an offset hole on the opposite side of the manifold, which is not the same as some other Y intakes, as to placement of the choke heat tube setup. (if I'm getting this right?) This had me scratching my head some. I was under the impression that all heat tubes took in air at the bottom "button" on the crossover & the tube curled upward & exited to the choke supply tube, on the same side. So, there were two layouts used?

Paul

For variable speed I have used old sewing machine pedals, put a male plug on one end and female on the other and can be used on different tools.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?