xxx
Y-Block Stan (8/14/2011)
Hello to all, I am new to the site and I hope this post saves someone some grief. I have a 55' club sedan gasser,292,4spd,9", ladderbar rear suspension, straight axle, tilt glass nose,you get the picture. I was still running the stock bellhousing and flywheel,(lots of heat cracks) so I says to myself before I loose a foot or have holes in my fiberglass nose maybe I better do something about this. I am not afraid to let the clutch fly at 6 grand so I bought a Quick time bellhousing kit and a powermaster FE block mini starter and went to work. While the trans was out, (toploader 4spd W/ Hurst inline shifter) I got a overhaul kit from David Kee to freshen it up.So I put the Quicktime block plate on, The billet steel flywheel, (Which comes with the kit) and tried to install the clutch. Damn, no bolt holes for a 10.5 "pressure plate. Off to Summit I go for a 11" Zoom plate and kevlar disc. Clutch is now in and bellhousing is on,clutch fork and t/o/brg and in goes the trans. right? WRONG! First the Adapter ring for the toploader front bearing retainer for the bellhousing is the wrong size. I'll just try the other one they sent with the kit, also wrong so I firers up the lathe and makes a new one the proper size and in goes the trans. right? Wrong again! Now the trans won't go all the way in cuz the front bearing retainer hits the clutch fork. This is where the bridgeport mill and belt sander come into play! After 2 hours on the belt sander and the mill and putting the trans in and out 4 times the trans is in, shifter back on,drive shaft is back in,All that is left is the starter,What could possibly go wrong now? Three bolts and one wire and its burnout time! So we let the lift down to install the 200.00 mini starter and the top and bottom bolt holes are dead against the block,I can thread bolts in them but not with a starter attached. So with a die grinder and a cut off wheel I had to cut a 3/8" trought in the block so the socket head bolt head has a place to live. I also had to cut a 1/4" off the bellhousing mounting ear so the bottom bolt had someplace to go. now the starter fits Right? Wrong again now the front mounting plate on the starter hits the block! ( this is all because they move the starter location closer to the block and use a FE block ring gear and Starter) So off comes the Starter nose and over to the belt sander to remove 3/16" + from the side that goes against the block.Now the starter fits and every thing works great. I now have a Y-block that sounds like an old chrysler when it starts but other then that I am very happy with the outcome.So everybody is aware I called Lakewood Ind.(they bought out Quicktime after I bought mine) And asked what clutch fork to use, they said the stock fork goes right in.BULLstuff! I also called them after this firedrill and told them what I just said here and the kid on the phone was less then interested,said he would have them call me(never did) So whenI saw lakewoods trailer at the Norwalk nats. I explained it to a real nice guy who seemed interested and said they would be in touch.Never Happened.In closing It is my opinion that if you buy these parts and think you are going to Install them without a Lathe,Mill,Beltsander,And lots of patients you are wrong.I have 35Yrs. in this business and my best friend who helped with this is a mechanial Engineer so It was'nt our first rodeo. There Is no way that they ever tried to Install these parts or they would have forseen these problems. I am not crying or looking for anything for nothing I just hope to save another y-block lover some Greif. Sorry this was so long, Good luck to all,StanI'm looking at using a Quicktime scattershield in my 57 Ford with a 312.
Questions:
The 11" Zoom pressure plate used. was a that Long or a diaphragm style? If a Long style, did the pressure plate cover appear to have adequate clearance to the inside of the bellhousing?
From what vehicle/application was the clutch fork from that you modified?
What brand and part # if known of throw out bearing was used?
From what vehicle/application of mechanical clutch linkage (equalizer bar, rods, ...) and did you have to modify any of those components?
Was the top loader 4 speed a small (1 1/16") or large (1 3/8") input shaft? If it was a small input shaft, did it have the longer (289) or shorter (390) pilot end? If a 289 style, did you cut the end of it off to shorten it or use a different or special pilot bearing?
I assume you used the Modern Driveline #MD-LBS-Y Block flywheel? Did this flywheel have any additional front or back axial offset, or did it appear to be a stock neutral balanced Small Block Ford 164T flywheel that had the center machined to bolt to a 292/312 crank?
How much bellhousing runout was measured at the transmission pilot bore and did you have to use offset dowels, etc ... to bring it to zero/minimal runout?
You stated 3/16" was machined off the starter to achieve proper pinion depth to the ring gear. How was the pinion to ring gear center distance engagement, did it appear proper?
Thank you in advance for help to answer my questions.
If there are others that have bought a Quicktime scattershield, either a #RM-8055 for a T-5 or the #RM-8056 for a BW/toploader and would like to share their installation experiences?
Regards,
Dennis