I have wondered about this for awhile.  Does the car steering box have about the same problem as shown in the picture?  The pic is of my truck several years ago.  Seemingly the problem of routing out the rams horn was impossible to solve.  It dumped directly on top center of the box, too close to work with.  Ended up milling the ram horn head flange on a 6 degree angle to tilt slightly in toward block, and was barely able to route a 2 in. exhaust.

There are lots of other obstacles down there too, including cross steering and drag link.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Forget the steering box, the rams horn outlet runs right into the car motor mount. I have never seen a car with rams horns and I think thats why

Oh yeah, I forgot about the motor mount.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I plan on making headers for my 32 Ford 292 application.  I also plan on using the traditional steering with a mustang, F100, or reverse corvair box to at least give me room to shoot the header pipe.  Lets not forget the oil filter, although that "could" be relocated.

That looked like my 39 Chevy coupe back in the old days before they made headers that fit.  I had to take a stock cast manifold, cut it on an angle then braze the other pc back on.

Crude but it worked.

Ken, welcome to the site.  The angle mill was pretty scarry, in that I didnt know if it would work, and if not, one RH would be scrap.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

A Rams Horn thought.. I wonder if the existing design could be altered before the outlet flange to face outward & toward the rear so as to be usuable on most Y-blk cars? And would there be enough interest to make it feasible? John M. ?

Paul

Yes, at $300 a pair, you hate to screw up a good ramhorn.  I know it took alot of brazing rod to fill in the gap.  I just used a hacksaw and cut right through the manifold, did a pie cut and checked my alignment.  It seem to work pretty well and didnt have to make many adjustments before the brazing process. No leaks, but the braze will need painted.

To find someone to "weld" the cast iron may be costly.  I had a engine block done once, and that was the last time I would do that, as it became toast. Although not as fragile as an engine block.

Not being able to see the space in front of the steering box, I would mabey turn the flange toward the front of the car, then go forward enough to shoot the gap ahead of the steering box.  This is where the old style front dump manifold could come in handy for at least a mock up.

I am glad to be on this site.  Good forums, not to many knuckle heads

With any luck I will start on my YBlock 32 Ford project in the next few months.  The exhaust is one of my concerns as well.