With both of the engines I've put together, I used a light coat of RTV on the main cap surface area - the only side of the aluminum retainer that does not have a rubber seal of some sort. I used thread sealer on the retainer bolts. No leaks of any sort in the rear main area on either of these engines.

I don't think any sealer should have to be applied directly to the rear main seal or side seals. The newer side seals are, for lack of a better term, oversized - once installed they will not fall out. The older style used a nail to hold it in place. Make sure the retainer and block are burr free. Clean off any oil before applying the sealer.

I did find it difficult to get the side seals installed. I'm interested in hearing any tricks for this.


Lawrenceville, GA

thanks ray i had another look yesterday & i really think its not the main but the cap itself i cleaned out the oil in that area ran it for 1/2 an hour no oil came out i really think it is my drive way causing it. moz

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

g,day moz what i do with my cranks i get a reverse scoll put on the rear seal area that helps a lot ray

    RAY. Y,S ALWAYS

yeah im not sure the workshop manual said to either put oil on it or if not starting it for a couple of days coat it in grease i only put grease on the edge were it would run on the crank. my customline has a 351 cleveland when i built that engine i put a rope seal in did the grease thing fitted the engine 3 months later its still not leakingive also done this on lots of other engines our ozzie holdens all have rope seals never had a problem.

moz

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

Thanks for the reply. I wonder if the grease sealed the rope and prevented it from absorbing oil.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

thanks ted i checked those already

pcmenten the rope seal was put in when i changed cranks the engine was refited the next day i covered the rope seal in grease, the thing is it could be the drive way at home the house is on a hill & the driveway is on a nearly 45 degree angle i go up & down once a day its after that i see oil on the ground at home & work.

moz.

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

I'm not an expert, but from what I've heard, the problem with the rope seals is that they can leak when they dry out. If the vehicle is started with a dry rope seal, the seal can scorch from friction, and there's nothing for it except to replace the seal.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

If you haven't done so already, you'll want to double check that the camshaft plug or the oil galley plugs in the back of the block are not contributing to oil leakage at the back of the engine. 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

thanks ted i did all those things you mentioned with the side seals & the cap i even filled in around the bolt heads with rtv sealer any thing that looked like oil could come out of i should have put the neoprene one in.

moz.

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

I personally favor the neoprene rear main seals.  Just insure that the seal lips are facing the inside of the engine upon installing them.  I also offset the ends about 3/8" when putting them into their respective grooves or slots.  Additionally, I put some sealer on the bottom or the flat of the seal retainer cap before bolting it in place.  Before putting the side seals in the seal retainer, I squeeze a small amount RTV or silicone in the side holes and then let the side seals push this down to the bottom of the slots.  This stops a potential path at the block for the oil to travel through along the side of the seal retainer.  And be sure to put the supplied nails in the seal retainer side of the slot and not the block side of the side seals.  The side seals need a rubber contact at the block and the nails helps increase the pressure at this point.

Anyone else can feel free to add or modify based on their own personal experiences.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)