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flywheel swap

Posted By mercman-49 14 Years Ago
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mercman-49
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I would like to find out if a 239 flywheel will work on a 292.Ihave a 292 with a 11 inch bolt pattern,i;m wanting to use a 10 inch clutch.I have a flywheel from a 239 but all the bolt holes are the same size,I don't know about the balance,thanks                                                                          Darrell Gipson,Mobile,AL

Darrell Gipson Ala.Gulf Coast
paul2748
Posted 14 Years Ago
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As far as I know, all YBlock flywheels were zero balance

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

mercman-49
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I have been in my shop 3 hrs  tring to line up bolt holes in flywheel and crankshaft;it looks as if someone redrilled one hole in crankshaft,it dont have a bevel around edge of hole.Thanks Darrell

Darrell Gipson Ala.Gulf Coast
MoonShadow
Posted 14 Years Ago
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It will only go one way. You can usually see an impression from the back of the previous crank to help line it up. Start with on hole and rotate it through the others. It should work. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

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mercman-49
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I tried lining up the  two flywheels and one hole off is the best it gets.I lined up the flywheels and ran 1/4 drill bit through the pressure plate bolt holes for a mark,will drill and tap tomorrow.If it was easy anybody could do it.  Darrell

Darrell Gipson Ala.Gulf Coast
Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 14 Years Ago
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If you were trying to line up the flywheels with each other back to back, you won't get all the holes to line up.  Also, keep in mind the clutch bolt holes are not necessarily indexed with the flywheel mounting holes.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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Ted
Posted 14 Years Ago
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239 and 292 flywheels interchange at the crankshaft.  There is an offset threaded bolt hole in the flywheel flange which allows the flywheel to only be installed one way.  You may have to rotate the flywheel to each hole combination until all the bolt holes align with each other.  All Y-Block flywheels are neutral (zero) balanced at the factory making them interchangeable without balance issues.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Rono
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Ted;

I have a two-part question here; First, I have two flywheels I'm considering using on this stroked and blown motor I'm trying to put together; A schiefer Aluminum one and a steel one. All things being equal, which one would you use? The plan right now is to use a Centerforce 11" clutch and pressure plate and T-5 tranny.

Secondly, if all flywheels are zero balanced at the factory, why does everyone want you to provide one when balancing a rotating assembly? Is it really not necessary?

Thanks,

Rono

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/4a19e870-e870-4f63-a0a4-db5b.jpg  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID



charliemccraney
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Reasons for balancing a flywheel that is balanced from the factory:

After thousands of miles of wear and tear have been put on a flywheel, it tends to get out of balance.

Resurfacing can throw it out of balance.



New flywheels should be checked especially if it is for a performance build. Even the greatest companies can mess up sometimes so don't assume it's right. Usually balancing the rotating assembly includes balancing the flywheel so give it to the machinist. If it doesn't need balancing, it didn't cost you any more and now you know. If you're using a flywheel with unknown history, or one that has been resurfaced, absolutely get it balanced.


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Ted
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Rono (2/21/2011)
Ted;  I have a two-part question here; First, I have two flywheels I'm considering using on this stroked and blown motor I'm trying to put together; A schiefer Aluminum one and a steel one. All things being equal, which one would you use? The plan right now is to use a Centerforce 11" clutch and pressure plate and T-5 tranny.
For a lot of stop and go driving, a heavier flywheel allows the engine to take off easier without a severe rpm drop or what would be perceived as a ‘bog’ off the line.  For road racing where there’s not a lot of taking off from a dead stop, then the aluminum flywheel allows the engine to rev quicker once the clutch is engaged.  For a street driver, my own preference is a flywheel weight that is equal to at least 1% of the car weight.  A 3200 lb car would need at least a 32 lb flywheel.  My truck has a 60 lb flywheel which allows the clutch to be engaged without any serious riding of the clutch in which to get the load moving.

Rono (2/21/2011)
Secondly, if all flywheels are zero balanced at the factory, why does everyone want you to provide one when balancing a rotating assembly? Is it really not necessary?
Charlie has done a good job in explaining why you rebalance a flywheel that’s already been neutral balanced in the past.  I’ll add that if a piece rotates, then at least checking for imbalance is recommended and especially where the balance history is unknown.  Besides the fact that the flywheels are not perfectly balanced from the factory, anytime a flywheel is resurfaced additional imbalance can be imparted into the flywheel.  Additionally, if the crankshaft flywheel centering flange is not perfectly centered (this can happen when the crankshaft is reground), then that can also throw off the weight on the flywheel.  Hence the need to at least check the flywheel on the crankshaft after the crankshaft has been brought to its desired state of balance.  And then there’s the pressure plate which adds another group of nuances into the balancing equation.  That’s another paragraph for later.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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