If the the .030 over pistons are good, why not go with them & the stk 312 rods? Displacement would be 317 cu in. Custom pistons are going to be fairly costly...

Paul

You can use the 272 rods with the 312 crank with special pistons, or you can machine the tops of standard flat top pistons .070 to use the longer rods.  Longer rods will not increase the stroke, stroke is determined by the crankshaft.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I dont know what I was thinking, I know stroke is controlled by the crank, dumb moment.  I need to check those pistons, I'm not used to using a used piston, in harleys we really dont get the chance, the pistons usually are ruined.  I got the specs on that cam also.  Its an Isky cam, #BL #4.  Intake opens 28, closes 66.  Exhaust oepns 28, closes 76.  Valve clearance is .018, lift is .420  Seems a little big to me for a street cam, but thats why I'm here.

That's not too big at all. It's a dual pattern with more duration on the exhaust, 274 intake, 284 exhaust.. I think you have the exhaust events backwards. Does it say anything about the duration at .050"?


Lawrenceville, GA

No info about duration at .050.  I'll try and put up some pics of the spec card on the cam and maybe a shot of the pistons and see what the concencus is on condition to run them.

So now back to the heads, should I send them in and have them worked or line up on the aluminum ones?

My first action was to take the block in have it cleaned, magnafluxed?, and sonic tested to make sure it is good to go.  Then I was going to look into boring and surfacing and if affordable or neccessary line honed and have the crank polished and work on putting together a short block.  Sound like a plan?

The heads depend on your performance goals and pockets. The aluminum heads will definitely give you an edge in the higher performance area, but the Gs will be quite adequate for the street. The testing done so far indicates that the aluminum heads will even improve the low end when compared to as cast G heads. However, I haven't yet heard any real world performance reviews when used on a mild street engine.

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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic44066-11-1.aspx

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In the dyno graphs, testing starts at 2500rpm and at that point, torque is better, but what happens below that, where a street engine will spend most of its time. Is it worthwhile for you? Only you can decide.


Lawrenceville, GA

So I need to get moving on this project and have a quick question.  How much can I expect to spend on machine work on my block?  I know it'll vary, but I'm looking ballpark.  Cleaning, magnaflux, sonic tested, surfaced, line honed, boring.  Anything I forgot?

Brandon:     Reply to your PM sent.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

So I didnt bail, just got stuck having to put money elsewhere for a few.  Should I rebuild my teapots on the dual four manifold?  Or just look into something else.  How do I know if that setup is an original, or something just put together.  Any input on carbs?  Thanks.

'56 dual teapots have EDB-9510-C stamped in the mounting flange under the fuel inlet.  '57 duals had ECJ-9510-AA or ECJ-9510-AB.  All other stamped numbers are from '56 single carb applications.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"