I'm beginning to rebuild a teapot for one of my Y-blocks. The specific carb i have is an ECZ-G model. When i purchased the rebuild kit i noticed that the kit works for many different teapot carbs such as EDB, ECZ, ECU, and ECJ models as well as a whole bunch of models with an R-1094 etc type number.

My question is what do these E and R type codes mean and are they interchangeable from engine to engine?

Steve

Not sure why you'd want to get tangled up with the various carb numbers though I'd want to be sure I'm not wasting a specifically rare carb. I'm starting to see why these seasoned warriors are so very careful before they weigh in, I work best in free association so here's my two bits, take or leave. Holley teapot rebuild kits are one size fits all and yer only going to use just a few bits out of the pile in any case. You'll have no trouble recognizing which bits fit yer carb, I save the extra bits just to confuse myself years later.



I would offer some carb rebuild tips though, when I choose an old carb I always make sure the fuel/air passages are mechanically cleared. Solvent tanks are no proof the passages are cleared. Remove all the lead plugs and run drills up all of them, if you send them to a carb shop require this procedure, they're just intersecting bores.



If yer upping the pumping ability of yer engine (higher lift cam, headers etc) one trick that made my teapots work better was realizing that teapot fuel circuits are too long so I upsize them (redrill bigger). This alone removed the bog, hesitation and high rpm supply problems for my performance dual teapot engines. I also always completely remove the choke assemblies to let more air in, and it's usually colder up here but I just ease along a couple of blocks to warm up.



Also be sure to look carefully at the throttle plate shafts/bores, seems they're always worn out and leak air, rebush them, cheap and easy, or look for non leakers. If you detect the slightest sideways shaft movement on the throttle link side they leak unfueled air. Then make very sure that the plates close off evenly and completely. And make damn sure those dinky plate retainer screws are permanently fastened. I firmly close off the butterfly plates, wiggle and tap them, then seat the plate capture screws. When yer trying to herd down a high idle setting with 8 holes you'll appreciate that you started off correctly from the beginning.



These teapots work just fine given size limitations and proper build. It still just falls to proper working order and size for the job. I once fell for some bad press on these teapots even after using them for so many years on so many cars. The bad press is nothing more than some ignorant buggers that like to spew bad news. All carbs can leak, all engines with a generous coating of oil can burn and all multi carb setups have added fire risk.



Yup.. any horse can kick you in the ass but that doesn't mean you shoot all the horses. Now what was that idiots name, Doc Fromader?


Dan in Seattle

Dan,

Thanks for the rebuild info. This is my first "teapot" rebuild so i am appreciative of all the info offered. I was interested to note that you have used them in multiple carb applications (2x4 i assume). Will any of the teapots work in dual quad setups? Also, should they be matched carbs, meaning should they both be ECJ or both ECZ etc.?

Steve

Each Ford Holley Teapot (model 4000) 4V carb has two numbers; one being the Ford part number and the other being the Holley list number.  ‘ECZ’ would be a part of the Ford numbering system while the ‘1094’ would be a part of the Holley numbering system.

 

Having the complete set of numbers or identifiers is important when working on these carbs as ‘ECJ’ or ‘ECZ’ by itself isn’t specific enough and needs the suffix that goes with it to properly identify a particular carburetor.  As an example, the ECJ-AA and ECJ-AB carbs are a different cfm from the ECJ-C,D,E,F,G,H,J,L,M,N,R,S,T, U,V,Y,and Z carbs.  That’s nineteen different model 4000 carbs that I found in a quick search in the Holley catalog with just the ‘ECJ’ prefix.  Each carb has an engineering change that makes it different from all the others. Whether that change represents a different fuel metering curve or is just a simple linkage hookup nuance is something that has to be further researched when trying to swap these carbs out for another or if trying to match up a pair for a multiple carb application.

 

With all that being said, that suffix on the end of the Ford part number will help to clarify exactly what the original application the carb was for.  The Holley list numbers are also just as specific as the Ford part numbers and any suffixes on those are just as important in helping to identify exacty which carb is being dealt with.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted,

Thank you for your expertise and research. I can see that i have some research of my own to do. Is there a specific reference that has the specs on all these variations/applications on the "teapot" theme?

Steve

There is a manual (probably long obsolete) called "Holley Carburetion - Illustrated Parts & Spec's Manual  No. 36-51".  It contains most Holley carburetors in List # order with Vehicle/Engine application, variable specifications and parts.  In the back are exploded views with component lists and Holley part numbers.

In addition, the 1949 - 1959 Ford Parts Catalog lists all the carburetors and serviced components.  Includes applications and Ford part numbers, but not Holley List or Holley part numbers.  

Regards,

Dennis

    

bird

Is your ECZ G carb have a LIST# of 1162?

If so I have a Holley sheet on it if interested.

Oldmics

Hey Dan! Doc Frohmader may be among a number of people that don't recommend using the now very old Teapot carbs, and your entitled to disagree with him. On the other hand, some years ago, he authored the best ever, at least at the time, magazine series ever written on rebuilding and modifying the Ford Y-Block engine. So, I'd be reluctant, If I were you, to describe him as an "idiot"! ...

Paul

I am looking forward to rebuilding and trying out a '56 ECZ List 1161 4V.  Also on hand is a '54 EBY 4V for Merc 256, which really looks antique.   It looks incomplete, compared to the '56, as you can kind of "see through it".  However everything is there.

Since a fair number of Y's Guys run dual 4000's, it seems that a single setup should be fairly easy and reliable.  Maybe being careful not to allow E10 gas to sit in carb or tank for long periods will extend rebuild life of the carbs?

What were some max. flow rates for the 4000's?

 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

ECZ-G is for a 1956 Ford Police Interceptor with 292 Mercury engine with std transmission and 1956 Ford 8 cylinder with Mercury 292 engine and std transmission. It should have Holley number of R-1162-1A



Dan is very correct in that the teapot can be made to run great. The biggest problem individuals have with the teapot it is too simple of a carburetor (or people think it is) that the problems arise. If you compare the tech sheet for a Carter and a teapot and see all pieces and tools needed to rebuild a Carter everyone is frightened and will give the Carter to an expert to rebuild so the Carter gets a good review. Whereas the teapot instructions are either hole #1 or hole #2, people cannot go wrong, not so.



Biggest problems with the teapot is vacuum leaks and fuel leaks. These can be eliminated if attention to detail is paid whenever rebuilding.



Problems really arise when using the original 55/56 style load-o-matic distributors as the distributor uses a vacuum signal from the carburetor which is very low. Even smallest vacuum leak in the carb causes the problems to magnify, timing, economy and performance.



To add to a few more areas than Dan has listed to watch for on a teapot is that the correct stud is installed in the air cleaner mounting hole so there is no vacuum leak around the stud. If you have a vacuum leak around the stud the spring on the economizer valve will hold the power valve open, fuel economy will really suck afterward. I usually place a piece of gasket under the stud to ensure a good seal. Another spot for vacuum leaks is the secondary housing gasket between the carb body and secondary diaphragm housing when using some of the universal Holley 4000 (teapot) gasket kits on the market. These kits have an additional hole (six holes instead of the original 5 hole, three screws, butterfly shaft hole and one vacuum hole) Gaskets with this extra vacuum hole came be reversed 180 deg as the three screw holes are equidistant to each other and then the extra vacuum hole can be mistaken for the correct one which leaves the vacuum hole only partially covered. Your secondaries will not work and your vacuum advance will not function properly either.



Another spot to watch is that the o-rings for the two tubes at the back of the carb are properly in place and the supplied washers are staked so there is an air tight seal between the tubes and the fuel bowl top and carb base. These tubes supply the fuel to your secondary jets. If these tubes do not have an air tight seal fuel will not be drawn to the secondary jets and secondaries and performance fails.



Always use new o-rings everywhere and use a lubricant whenever installing, make sure the o-rings have no nicks as a fuel leak can occur, then fires happen. Other spots for fuel leaks is the needle valve and seat cover. This has to be very tight and always use a new gasket. If you have the old style pop in seat make sure the o-ring is seated under the seat flange and the holding spring is is place. These seats are now obsolete and the gasket kits say to reuse your existing seat. I have converted several carbs over to the later screwed in seat by tapping threads in the fuel bowl. The threads on the new style seats are 24 TPI which is same pitch as a 3/8 SAE bolt however OD is much large than a 3/8 SAE threaded bolt. I have found the taps for a 3/8 SAE Heli-coil have the same 24 TPI and is the correct diameter for the threaded seat. **On a disclaimer I would check to make sure the Heli-coil tap you have is the same size just in case some other Heli-coil sets use a different tap OD to the one I have before threading the fuel bowl**.



Mike:

The CFM's I have heard tossed about for the teapot was 370 CFM for the Ford cars and 390 CFM's for the Lincoln teapot.



marv