Here’s a short list for Teapot mods for dual quads.

 

Use the long yellow spring in the Holley spring kit in the secondaries.  Short yellow for a little bit quicker opening.  The reduced air flow due to using two carbs will have the stock silver springs opening far too late.

 

Drill and tap the secondary covers so that the two covers can be connected with a common piece of vacuum tubing.  This just insures that the secondaries are working in tandem and together.

 

For the carb economizer valve assy that fastens to the bottom of the carb fuel reservoir cover with three screws, tie two or three of the spring coils together to reduce the amount of spring tension.  This will allow a quicker transition to the power valve circuit under light cruising situations.

 

Do away with the spark valves if attempting to hook up the vacuum advance.  This also means to block the venturi assist port that’s located within the anti-spark valve cavity.  Use only a ’57 and up distributor if attempting to hook up the vacuum advance.  If not using a vacuum advance, be sure to plug the vacuum advance ports at the front of each carb.

 

Hook up the carbs so that they work simultaneously or in tandem.  Fuel distribution under cruise situations is better on many of the dual quad Y intakes in this format.

 

Not a complete list so anyone can feel free to chime in and add as they deem prudent.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The ‘Holley Carburetor Numerical Listing’ reference manual p/n 36-168 is still available from Holley suppliers.  This book lists many of the model 4000 carbs (teapots) in numerical order using the Holley list number while also providing the Ford part number where applicable and the original oem application.  There’s not much detail in this manual on the differences between the carbs other than the intended application.

 

Regarding the latest ‘Holley Illustrated Parts & Specs’ reference manual p/n 36-51-7, be aware that it does not include details on the model 4000 Holley carbs.  You'll need to be on the lookout for an older version of this publication for information on the Teapots.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

While on the teapot subject, does anyone have all the info on converting single carbs to be used as a dual four set-up? Is it possible to make the changes without spending a wad of cash or are there dual-four specific parts that are unobtainable? Tried the search function,but couldn't find any details.  Thanks for any info you can pass on.   Barry

ECZ-G is for a 1956 Ford Police Interceptor with 292 Mercury engine with std transmission and 1956 Ford 8 cylinder with Mercury 292 engine and std transmission. It should have Holley number of R-1162-1A



Dan is very correct in that the teapot can be made to run great. The biggest problem individuals have with the teapot it is too simple of a carburetor (or people think it is) that the problems arise. If you compare the tech sheet for a Carter and a teapot and see all pieces and tools needed to rebuild a Carter everyone is frightened and will give the Carter to an expert to rebuild so the Carter gets a good review. Whereas the teapot instructions are either hole #1 or hole #2, people cannot go wrong, not so.



Biggest problems with the teapot is vacuum leaks and fuel leaks. These can be eliminated if attention to detail is paid whenever rebuilding.



Problems really arise when using the original 55/56 style load-o-matic distributors as the distributor uses a vacuum signal from the carburetor which is very low. Even smallest vacuum leak in the carb causes the problems to magnify, timing, economy and performance.



To add to a few more areas than Dan has listed to watch for on a teapot is that the correct stud is installed in the air cleaner mounting hole so there is no vacuum leak around the stud. If you have a vacuum leak around the stud the spring on the economizer valve will hold the power valve open, fuel economy will really suck afterward. I usually place a piece of gasket under the stud to ensure a good seal. Another spot for vacuum leaks is the secondary housing gasket between the carb body and secondary diaphragm housing when using some of the universal Holley 4000 (teapot) gasket kits on the market. These kits have an additional hole (six holes instead of the original 5 hole, three screws, butterfly shaft hole and one vacuum hole) Gaskets with this extra vacuum hole came be reversed 180 deg as the three screw holes are equidistant to each other and then the extra vacuum hole can be mistaken for the correct one which leaves the vacuum hole only partially covered. Your secondaries will not work and your vacuum advance will not function properly either.



Another spot to watch is that the o-rings for the two tubes at the back of the carb are properly in place and the supplied washers are staked so there is an air tight seal between the tubes and the fuel bowl top and carb base. These tubes supply the fuel to your secondary jets. If these tubes do not have an air tight seal fuel will not be drawn to the secondary jets and secondaries and performance fails.



Always use new o-rings everywhere and use a lubricant whenever installing, make sure the o-rings have no nicks as a fuel leak can occur, then fires happen. Other spots for fuel leaks is the needle valve and seat cover. This has to be very tight and always use a new gasket. If you have the old style pop in seat make sure the o-ring is seated under the seat flange and the holding spring is is place. These seats are now obsolete and the gasket kits say to reuse your existing seat. I have converted several carbs over to the later screwed in seat by tapping threads in the fuel bowl. The threads on the new style seats are 24 TPI which is same pitch as a 3/8 SAE bolt however OD is much large than a 3/8 SAE threaded bolt. I have found the taps for a 3/8 SAE Heli-coil have the same 24 TPI and is the correct diameter for the threaded seat. **On a disclaimer I would check to make sure the Heli-coil tap you have is the same size just in case some other Heli-coil sets use a different tap OD to the one I have before threading the fuel bowl**.



Mike:

The CFM's I have heard tossed about for the teapot was 370 CFM for the Ford cars and 390 CFM's for the Lincoln teapot.



marv

I am looking forward to rebuilding and trying out a '56 ECZ List 1161 4V.  Also on hand is a '54 EBY 4V for Merc 256, which really looks antique.   It looks incomplete, compared to the '56, as you can kind of "see through it".  However everything is there.

Since a fair number of Y's Guys run dual 4000's, it seems that a single setup should be fairly easy and reliable.  Maybe being careful not to allow E10 gas to sit in carb or tank for long periods will extend rebuild life of the carbs?

What were some max. flow rates for the 4000's?

 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Hey Dan! Doc Frohmader may be among a number of people that don't recommend using the now very old Teapot carbs, and your entitled to disagree with him. On the other hand, some years ago, he authored the best ever, at least at the time, magazine series ever written on rebuilding and modifying the Ford Y-Block engine. So, I'd be reluctant, If I were you, to describe him as an "idiot"! ...

Paul

bird

Is your ECZ G carb have a LIST# of 1162?

If so I have a Holley sheet on it if interested.

Oldmics

There is a manual (probably long obsolete) called "Holley Carburetion - Illustrated Parts & Spec's Manual  No. 36-51".  It contains most Holley carburetors in List # order with Vehicle/Engine application, variable specifications and parts.  In the back are exploded views with component lists and Holley part numbers.

In addition, the 1949 - 1959 Ford Parts Catalog lists all the carburetors and serviced components.  Includes applications and Ford part numbers, but not Holley List or Holley part numbers.  

Regards,

Dennis

    

Ted,

Thank you for your expertise and research. I can see that i have some research of my own to do. Is there a specific reference that has the specs on all these variations/applications on the "teapot" theme?

Steve

Each Ford Holley Teapot (model 4000) 4V carb has two numbers; one being the Ford part number and the other being the Holley list number.  ‘ECZ’ would be a part of the Ford numbering system while the ‘1094’ would be a part of the Holley numbering system.

 

Having the complete set of numbers or identifiers is important when working on these carbs as ‘ECJ’ or ‘ECZ’ by itself isn’t specific enough and needs the suffix that goes with it to properly identify a particular carburetor.  As an example, the ECJ-AA and ECJ-AB carbs are a different cfm from the ECJ-C,D,E,F,G,H,J,L,M,N,R,S,T, U,V,Y,and Z carbs.  That’s nineteen different model 4000 carbs that I found in a quick search in the Holley catalog with just the ‘ECJ’ prefix.  Each carb has an engineering change that makes it different from all the others. Whether that change represents a different fuel metering curve or is just a simple linkage hookup nuance is something that has to be further researched when trying to swap these carbs out for another or if trying to match up a pair for a multiple carb application.

 

With all that being said, that suffix on the end of the Ford part number will help to clarify exactly what the original application the carb was for.  The Holley list numbers are also just as specific as the Ford part numbers and any suffixes on those are just as important in helping to identify exacty which carb is being dealt with.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)