I'll try the "choke" method and see if that helps, thanks.

You might try a Running Flush on the carb.  This is where (with the car in ‘park’ of course) you bring the rpms up some, then go to full throttle and about the time the engine gets to 3500-4000 rpms or so, you choke the carb and leave the choke closed with the throttle wide open.  At the point of the engine stalling, then open the choke and let the engine then clear itself out.  This cleaning method allows engine vacuum to force fuel through all the carb circuits thus flushing or rinsing them out.  If there is any debris floating within the circuitry and is loose enough to be sucked out, this will at times fix some of the simple carb ailments.  This may keep from having to pull the carb and do a more thorough cleaning on it.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

If its been rebuilt and has the replacement needle and seat the needle may be sticking and shutting off fuel.Also the replacement N and S may not have the wire clip that holds the float to the needle as the original steel N and S used.This allows the float to "pull" the needle as the fuel level drops rather than using gravity to open itThe replacement needles have a "soft" tip that deteriorates and sticks with the new gas.You can find the original steel needle and seats from some of the obsolete parts people. If you can get the carb ID # off the carb base(its stamped into the base)I can possibly give you the correct Ford part# for the original steel needle and seat.If you go on Ebay and look at item # 190456181486 I am pretty sure thats the one you want.Notice the needle has the steel clip on it to hook onto the float.Rebuilders for some reason dont reuse that clip when redoing these carbs and it does make a difference

  

Guys, I have a 272 V8 with the Holley teapot carb. The carb has been rebuilt and has been running ok till the other day I came to a stop and it wanted to stall out. Had to put it in neutral at stops till I got home. This was after it had been running awhile(seemed to run better when cold).  When I got home I fooled around with the idle mixture screws and the idle itself and seemed to be idling ok, but when I put it in drive it still stalled out. I'm thinking it's a carb issue but maybe it's not. Any help would be appreciated.