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Ted
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Marv. Thanks for the dealer bulletin info regarding the radiator air upper deflector. My ’55 wagon still has this on it and has the 182HP Special (Teapot carb equipped). The bulletin info is good stuff and explains exactly the intent of the deflector.
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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marvh
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Bill: Here is the quote right from Ford in a dealer bulletin. marv GSL #186 (General Service Letter) dated May 2, 1955 to all dealers states para 1. Radiator Air Upper Deflector - 4 Barrel Carburetor Units - 1955 cars
As you know, recently we advised that to minimize the possibility of icing in 4 barrel carburetors used on 272 Special and Police interceptor engines, a radiator deflector was going to be incorporated in production. The air deflector, part number B5A-8327-A will be effective in production approximately May 1,1955. Service parts will not be available until approximately June 1, 1955.
Use of the radiator air upper deflector increases the under hood temperatures. This, of course, is desirable in ambient temperatures below approximately 58 deg F to prevent carburetor icing. The increase in under hood temperatures, however, may have a slight detrimental effect on engine performance during the warm summer months in most areas. However, in areas of extremely high summer temperatures, it will be desirable to remove the air deflector to prevent possible detonation and loss of performance.
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aussiebill
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oldcarmark (10/10/2010) Actually it was Marvh that knew about the real reason the deflector was on there.I assumed like everyone else that it was there to force air through the rad.Cant hurt to remove it and see if it helps.I see about 90% of engine pictures have that delector removed.Makes it easier to work on the rear of the motor too.Marve, i agree with removal of it to stop cutting you in half while leaning over it, I doubt it was there to keep heat in engine bay in this country where its a lot hotter than cold and think it would do more good directing air flow through radiator.
AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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oldcarmark
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Actually it was Marvh that knew about the real reason the deflector was on there.I assumed like everyone else that it was there to force air through the rad.Cant hurt to remove it and see if it helps.I see about 90% of engine pictures have that delector removed.Makes it easier to work on the rear of the motor too.

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Rono
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Thanks OldCarMark for the comment about the air deflector. I always assumed it was used more like an air dam to force more air through the radiator core when you were moving. Never considered it was intended to keep warm air in the engine compartment in winter. Since I won't be running the car much in the winter up here in Maine, guess I'll pull that thing out of there. Rono
Ron Lane, Meridian, ID
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ejstith
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John Mummert (9/15/2010) I'm not familiar with that coil but some coils aren't meant to mounted horizontal. They are oil filled and use the oil for cooling. When laid flat some of the windings are not covered in oil and can overheat.John how would one know about the orientation of the coil. I have a Mallory (one that eliminates the resistor) and it's laying down and I've had the same above symptoms for over 2 years. I've always thought it was vapor lock because I can run a stream of water on the fuel pump & it doesn't stall out. I don't remember seeing anything about the coil orientation when I installed it.
Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria
E.J. in Havana FL
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John Mummert
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I'm not familiar with that coil but some coils aren't meant to mounted horizontal. They are oil filled and use the oil for cooling. When laid flat some of the windings are not covered in oil and can overheat.
http://ford-y-block.com 20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico 
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lovefordgalaxie
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That's a fine coil, I see no reason for expecting a short life out of it. Since your coil was replaced into warranty, I would give it a try.
Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.
'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8
'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8
'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6
'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec
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peeeot
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I rebuilt the carburetor again, and the new kit came with a power valve and gasket of a different design than the last kit I installed. This valve and gasket were clearly designed to work together AND with the design of my carburetor. I tightened the power valve down as tightly as I dared, so if that hasn't taken care of the power valve issue then nothing will. But I believe it has. It turns out that the power valve was not, in fact, the cause of my hot running problem though. After mounting the rebuilt carb, I was rechecking the distributor advance curve with the car idling in park when it started to miss and quit running. It was then extremely difficult to get it started again. I put my timing light pickup on the coil to distributor ignition wire and saw that it was not firing more often than it was firing. I could not test the coil adequately to conclusively determine that it was bad, but I replaced it under warranty and the problem symptoms seem to have completely disappeared. The bad coil was less than a year old, with less than 6k miles on it. I'm glad to know what caused the problem, but I am wondering now whether I should expect such short coil life again, and if so, whether it is a poor quality coil or else the location and manner of mounting that's causing the problem. I'm using an Accel Super Stock points coil number 8140, and it is mounted in the stock location--laying on its side behind the carburetor under the air cleaner. Would another coil be more reliable? I'd prefer to keep the stock mounting location. Thanks!
1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive
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lovefordgalaxie
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Ol'ford nut (9/7/2010)
lovefordgalaxie (9/7/2010)
Very good that you found the problem! And a cheap one to fix.  Now that you have the carb out, take a look at the play on the axle. If it's too much, it can alow air to get in, and also cause the engine to die at idle, but in this case, only when very hot. I never saw a carb with that much play, but my Ford Galaxie Service Manual talks about this as a secondary cause to the problem. By "axle" I believe he means the throttle plate shaft. You can get play where it goes through the body and it will suck air. I had one carb that bad so I took out the shaft and drilled indent in body to accept a o-ring around shaft. IT WORKED! Yes!! That's exactly what I mean. Around here, we just cal it axle.
Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.
'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8
'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8
'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6
'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec
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