Not sure where to post this, but I have a 573 (pic below) that has been painted and the paint is chipping.







I am in the process of cleaning up and refurbishing the engine and the engine compartment in my 63 F100 Uni and I would like for it to look like the pic below:







I'm assuming it's aluminum. What's the best way to remove the old paint? What's the best way to get the original finish? Anyone had any experience with power coating this manifold? (Assuming you can powder coat aluminum).



Is it possible to bead blast these manifolds without getting the media inside the manifold and not be able to get it out?



Thanks in advance for any information or guidance.




Gerald Ingram aka "Gritsngumbo"
Monroe, LA
LITTLE RED: 64 Ford F100 Short Bed Styleside
BIG RED: 63 Ford F100 Long Bed Unibody
BBW RED: 61 Ford F100 BBW Long Bed Custom Cab Unibody
BIG “UN: 63 F250 Longbed Flareside
CREW CAB: 63 F100 "Stageway" Crew Cab w/Long "Wrong" Bed

You can probably get it done with a Dremel or die grinder with a wire wheel.


Lawrenceville, GA

I have actually just had that done...I had it Hot Coated with header ceramic coating and it came out a little too shinny, so I lightly sand blasted it and it looks like a new aluminum intake now.



Speaking of using the Edelbrock tri-power manifold, where do you mount your coil since the Edelbrock 553 manifold does not have the mounting bosses?



Sorry about the hijack...

Doug

Riverside, CA

Hi Jack: Mine is mounted on the firewall just above the distributor.

Gerald Ingram aka "Gritsngumbo"
Monroe, LA
LITTLE RED: 64 Ford F100 Short Bed Styleside
BIG RED: 63 Ford F100 Long Bed Unibody
BBW RED: 61 Ford F100 BBW Long Bed Custom Cab Unibody
BIG “UN: 63 F250 Longbed Flareside
CREW CAB: 63 F100 "Stageway" Crew Cab w/Long "Wrong" Bed

Cleaning paint from cast alloy is a pain. Bead blasting is probably the best. When you get it back thoroughly wash and scrub it. One tip I was given was to stick it in the oven and heat it up. Remember to place it on a tray. Cast alloy is porus and glass beads can get stuck in the alloy. Heating it expands the metal and releases the beads. You'll get a layer of sand in the tray after.

Another method is vapor blasting this should be effective in removing the paint. The advantage of vapor blasting is the finish which has a glossy almost resin finish. This is just residue from the process and assists in preventing oxidization for a while at least.

I'm getting a 553 vapor blasted. Dropped it off yesterday. Should have it back in a week or so should be able to post some pics.

I hate powder coat. It chips then flakes off it cannot be touched up the only way you can remove it is to burn it off.     

     

    

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Glass Bead or soda blasting should remove the paint. It can be done with sand too. The one pictured looks like it was sprayed with a gloss clear, which darkens it a little.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Most new aluminum castings are wheel abrated with stainless shot .060" or smaller. The smaller the shot the shinier the finish.

For re-work purposes glass bead and clear coat is probably the best. If you don't coat it with something every finger print and drip will show.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Why not use Kleen-strip paint stripper?